ANTI-AGEING 169
appreciated as a food supplement that beautifies the skin from the inside. However, cosmetic formulations also use millet to supply the skin with valuable vitamins and minerals. It contains important amino acids, folate and niacin and is rich in iron, magnesium, potassium, but most importantly silicon as the bioavailable orthosilicic acid. Orthosilicic acid, as the body’s main silicon-containing compound, comprises four reactive hydroxyl groups. It can bind collagen and glucosaminoglycans and in this way stabilise the dermal networks. Several investigations in the field of material science have demonstrated the very high capacity of orthosilicic acid for binding collagen. It can very readily interlink various collagen fibres to form the required bundles, which will strengthen the existing collagen network.6
Application of the epidermal astringent
improves the evenness of the skin microstructure and reduces fine lines, measurably (Fig 5) as well as visibly (Fig 6).
Smart collagen management Wrinkles that have appeared in the collagen-rich tissue of the dermis over the years can only be reversed with difficulty. The consequence is thin, wrinkled and inelastic skin. The collagen remodelling processes are very slow, and undergo complex biochemical reactions, which ensure a subtle balance between the degradation and reconstruction of collagen. Since with increasing age the balance shifts towards degradation, it is important to counteract this at an early stage, but in a regulated manner, with a suitable boost of collagen. This can be achieved by means of a controlled increase in collagen synthesis by means of the stimulation of fibroblasts without interference by inflammatory subsidiary processes. To maintain as youthful a dermis structure as possible, the processes that occur during the integration of new collagen fibres must be given sufficient time to develop a strong network.
Tannins
Silicic acid
Loss of fibre organisation and connectivity
Tightening of the skin surface 2-Component fixation of fibre network Reinforcement of basal lamina attachment
Impaired collagen network Formation of wrinkles and skin flaws Rejuvenated collagen network
Lifting & anti-aging effect smoother texture
Figure 3: Liftonin tightens loose collagen fibers. Orthosilicic acid and tannins possess multiple hydrogen bond donor groups which will reorganise a loose collagen network. In addition, tannins have astringent properties that help smooth micro wrinkles and the skin microrelief.
But at the same time, the activation of the immune cells must be disabled to prevent overmodulation of the system, and thus an unwanted development with the collagen fibers arranged in parallel, as is the case in scar tissue.
Liftonin-Xpert Eco (now referred to as ‘the collagen manager’) offers an innovative mechanism that can compensate for an imbalance in the collagen metabolism of the dermis in a controlled manner (Fig 7). The unique combination of acetylated polymannose, which has a stimulating effect on the fibroblasts, and compounds such as knipholone, which suppress the development of inflammatory responses by inhibiting leukotriene synthesis, makes the collagen manager a smart manager of the dermal structure.11
The effects mean that
the formation of wrinkles can be delayed for a long time, and old skin can be restored to a more youthful condition. The collagen manager helps everywhere that
B1/B2: Blank Collagen matrix
the long-term quality of collagen is important: providing anti-ageing effects as well as helping deal with stretch marks and tattoos.
Functional ingredients and efficacy Mannan from Bulbine frutescens leaf juice Like the Aloe vera, Bulbine frutescens is a succulent plant and contains a gel-like sap in its leaves. For the manufacture of the collagen manager, pure sap is obtained by means of non-aggressive cold pressing of the leaves. The mannan-containing fraction is obtained using a special refinement concept with a sophisticated filtration system. This technique makes it possible to offer a natural, COSMOS-listed, sustainable product. Bulbine frutescens has long been used in traditional medicine for the healing of skin injuries, burns, sunburn and insect bites12
due to the soothing, anti-
inflammatory effect of the sap. However, the results of scientific studies of Bulbine
n Blank n Control n LIFTONIN® Area of collagen gel
U1/U2: Control Collagen matrix Dermal fibroblasts
U9/U10: LIFTONIN® Collagen matrix Dermal fibroblasts 0.2% LIFTONIN®
250 200 150 100 50 0
0.2%
*** ***
*
1
2
3
4 Days
7 89 10
Mean+SEM; n=2;
*=p < 0.05 ***=p < 0.001
Figure 4: Tannins in Liftonin are able to stabilise the collagen network. Application of 0.2 % Liftonin leads to a delayed gel contraction when fibroblasts are applied to the collagen matrix. This demonstrates the physical power of tannins to bind and reorganise a collagen network.
April 2020 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
mm2
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188 |
Page 189 |
Page 190 |
Page 191 |
Page 192 |
Page 193 |
Page 194 |
Page 195 |
Page 196
