SKIN CARE 155
in water solution. Pollutant residues on skin were significantly decreased by 54% in comparison to water alone. Moreover, the pollutant particle
aggregation capacity of the extract was demonstrated. By increasing the particle size, the ingredient makes them easier to remove, thus reinforcing the cleaning capacity of the active.
Clinical studies Sebum overproduction is a major contributor to oily skin, acne-prone skin, or an oily scalp. While excess of sebaceous gland activity is often attributed to hormones, genetics, diet or lifestyle, the influence of environmental pollutants is now well on the radar of the industry. The skin has its own in-built ability to defend itself against aggressors, and in turn control sebum and cleanse pores. The food origin extracts by specifically targeting the Nrf2 pathway, and regulating sebocytes to lower sebum production induced by pollutants, revealed a good potential to further limit the visible toxin-induced consequences.
Skin cleansing Dust collected from polluted air was applied to volunteers’ forearm to determine the cleansing ability. Skin was then washed with water (control) or water containing 2% active solution to determine its cleansing ability. The test was conducted on skin and on forearm hair. Data showed a reduction in pollutants by up to 46.6% after rinsing.
Skin detoxification
Another clinical study was run in order to check the skin detoxification potential. A foaming cleanser containing 2% of the ingredient was applied and several parameters related to a detoxified skin were investigated.
Sebum spot area was significantly
decreased by 14.51% and sebum spot number was significantly decreased by 12.37%, representing a better regulation of sebum secretion. Cleanliness of pores was significantly reduced, with a score of -26.32% representing a significant improvement of pores’ condition. Skin scaling was significantly reduced by -35.83%.
Skin radiance and brightness
Radiance is defined by the quantity of light reflected by the skin which, in turn, depends on the brightness of the skin. An excess of oxidative stress, linked to pollution for instance, could lead to keratinocytes apoptosis resulting in irritation leading to a dull complexion. High sebum content also contributes to a lack of skin radiance and an increase in skin disorders.
A clinical investigation involving a panel of Chinese women presenting a dull
April 2020
ns non sigificant *** p<0.001
p=0.059 20 +18% ***
15
10 +7%ns
5
0 Placebo BioDTox
Figure 3: Enhancement of skin radiance after 8 hours’ exposure to urban pollution.
complexion and having oily skin was performed to evaluate the cleansing effect of the mix after only one product application in an industrial city in China. Volunteers were asked to make a standardised city tour for 8 hours in the polluted city environment. At the end of the day, one half of the face was washed with the active while the other half was washed with placebo. The main skin parameter impacted by an industrial environment full of toxins was monitored: skin radiance according to a 10 point scale (0 = not radiant, 9 = very radiant). Used as a rinse-off product, the active clearly enhances complexion radiance, promoting its cleansing ability. On top of this, 96% of volunteers reported improvement in skin radiance compared to placebo. By reducing the sebum production, skin is detoxified and protected from oxidative stress stimulated by a polluted lifestyle and becomes more radiant.
Conclusion BioDTox [Propanediol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Bioflavonoids, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract] helps skin to (re)- educate itself to self-balance and self- detoxify. Its efficacity was assessed during extensive studies and thanks to several clinical analysis demonstrating its high efficiency in helping the skin to detoxify from pollution and its collateral damages, in particular sebum secretion disruption, oxidative stress, cell intoxication and apoptosis. It enhances the skin cell detoxification
process by activating the Nrf2 pathway which
in turn breaks down toxins, protecting cells against oxidative stress damage and repairing or limiting skin disorders. The result is a reduction in pollutant adhesion on the skin to help clean pores, reduce sebum, and exfoliate softly for an improved complexion. After only one application, the complexion is more radiant, and volunteers confirmed the results. Skin is detoxified and protected from stress stimulated by a polluted lifestyle. Skin can breathe again. BioDTox has benefits on sebum
regulation, oxidative stress, detoxification process, pollutant cleansing and skin radiance from the first application. This Cosmos-approved ingredient can be used in skin care and cosmetic products, including detoxification serums, sebum controllers, brightening and protective day creams, cleansers and anti-pollution shampoo formulations.
PC
References 1 Schäfer M, Werner S. Nrf2 – A regulator of
keratinocyte redox signaling. Free Radic Biol Med. 2015; 88: 243-252.
2 Dinkova-Kostova AT, Talalay P. Direct and indirect antioxidant properties of inducers of cytoprotective proteins. Mol Nutr Food Res. 2008; 1: 128-38.
3 Bowe WP, Patel N, Logan AC. Acne vulgaris: the role of oxidative stress and the potential therapeutic value of local and systemic antioxidants. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. 2012; 11(6): 742-6
4 Ottaviani M, Camera E, Picardo M. Lipid Mediators in Acne. Mediators of Inflammation. 2010
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Radiance scoring improvement % (DO/T8h compared to (DO/TO)
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