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CONTENTS 3 April 2020


Volume 14 Issue 2 5


NEWS FEATURES


12 What today’s consumers want from personal care


16 Learn the secret to winning formulations


22 The leading consumer trends of 2020


27 Antimicrobial testing: what do the results mean?


33 Leveraging sustainability for advantage


38 Trends and innovations in APAC’s hair care market


41 Certified content brings transparency to natural claims


45 Inflammasomes: key to the engine of skin inflammaging


50 The skin microbiome analysed


53 Sensitive skin: an ultra-sensitive topic


64 The importance of marine sustainability


187 FORMULATIONS COVER STORY Who sleeps like a princess and awakens with beautiful skin? We do. April 2020


To sleep like a princess and awaken with beautiful skin – isn’t this the dream of every woman? A recent Mintel study reports that 80 percent of women in France, Germany, Italy and Spain all agree that getting enough sleep is an important part of looking after their skin.


The “beauty sleep” or “clean sleep” concept is


Inflammasomes: key to the engine of skin inflammaging Using natural oils in fragrance: its role in clean beauty


Enhancing nocturnal processes for beautiful skin www.personalcaremagazine.com


extremely trendy. “Clean sleep” is about the habits and behaviours that can improve the quality of sleep and help feel better rested. Consumers understand well the link between sleep and lifestyle factors with skin appearance, mental and physical health. Read more about this in the article ‘Enhancing nocturnal processes for beautiful skin’, on page 67. Building on this trend, Ashland is launching Nightessence™ biofunctional. It enhances the


naturally occurring nocturnal process that helps skin boost molecules such as timezyme and melatonin and is tailored to understand and optimise skin’s night- time needs. It helps restore skin overnight, so it looks rested, renewed and illuminated by morning. Nightessence™ was eco-consciously designed


from field-to-skin. The premium lavender is grown sustainably, respecting nature in its cultivation and harvesting techniques on the mountain slopes in Provence, France. The flowers are extracted using Ashland’s proprietary Plant Small RNA technology to offer a novel type of lavender essence to the cosmetic market. Visit www.ashland.com/nightessence Join the Ashland solvers on booth F40 at in-cosmetics Global and stay up to date on our activities at show. www.ashland.com/incos20


Ashland, 50 E. RiverCenter Blvd, P.O. Box 391, Covington, KY 41012-0391, USA Tel: +1 859 815 3333 www.ashland.com


April 2020 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


67 Enhancing nocturnal processes for beautiful skin


72 Appealing concepts for the whole family


75 Natural anti-acne extract aids healthy skin microbiota


81 Water quality that is more than skin deep


85 Keratosis pilaris quantified by two test methods


92 Amino acid-based surfactants: more than just ‘natural’!


99 The challenge of appealing to millennials and Generation Z


103 Leading international exhibitors and speakers


111 Natural antiperspirants: dream or reality?


119 Natural formulations with non-nano mineral UV filters


124 Odour absorption from activated zinc ricinoleate


Follow us on twitter @personalcaremag


131 New ingredient from Rosa rugosa delays skin ageing


139 An antipollution shield from sustainable sericin


144 Clearing senescent cells for rejuvenated skin


148 Understanding natural ingredients and mildness


153 Skin detoxification and sebum control process


157 A new fragrance resource for ‘natural’ products


160 Ingredients focus: fragrance ingredients and concepts


163 Using natural oils in fragrance: its role in clean beauty


167 Analysis of ‘The trilogy of lifting’


174 Strengthening natural protection against light


179 Strong antioxidant defence from green tea extract


183 Sucrose esters concentrated emulsion technology


Cover photo: Ashland


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