68 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
Figure 2: Plant Small RNA technology.
traceability. The lavender is locally sourced. The fields are only 140 km from the Ashland biofunctional factory. The flowers are cultivated (not wild) and the cultivation respects sustainable farming techniques. Lavender growers start harvesting when bees stop foraging and when flowers are almost all withered. They also respect nature’s need to regenerate: stems are cut during harvest at a critical stage to preserve the plant, stimulate its growth, and ensure it blooms the following year. The impacts on the environment are minimised. The cultivation is done without use of irrigation; watering only comes from the rain which is typically heavy in May. The carbon footprint due to transport (road) is lowered as fields are close to the factory. The flowers are dried naturally with wind and only dried flowers are used in the process thus requiring less energy storage as compared to fresh. Lastly, the flowers are minimally processed applying the Plant Small RNA technology which uses natural substances and produces only naturally derived waste.
Introducing the biology of nighttime skin
For the first time in the field of active ingredients, Ashland has deeply studied skin’s biology at night and has tailored a bioactive specifically to target skin’s nocturnal needs.
As we sleep, the skin and its cells continuously work no matter if it is day or night. During the day, skin shows protective functions, sebum production and the highest pH with the lowest cell proliferation. During the night, the DNA damage due to environmental stress needs to be repaired. The skin shows its highest cell proliferation, skin temperature and skin barrier
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
permeability. This is also the time the skin loses most of its moisture.1 Based on scientific research, Ashland has defined the biology of the skin at night as the noctology™ and describes the needs of skin through essential processes and molecules for daily damage repair, night cleansing and night reset.
The new lavender flower extract is a new to market concept designed to optimise skin’s noctology: l Night gene activation (linked to quality sleep and repair)
l Nocturnal molecule production such as melatonin,2,3
known to be the “good sleep”
molecule, and timezyme enzyme, responsible for the conversion of serotonin into melatonin which displays day/night variations with a 100-fold nocturnal increase.4,5
l DNA repair particularly of dark DNA damage (dark cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs)) that start 4 hours after sun exposure, also called the ‘black sun’ effect.6,7,8,9,10
l Skin cleansing linked to autophagy process at night and messenger RNA quality control.
Lifestyles, daylight and sun can
dysregulate night-time processes. The light- at-night (LAN), described as the visible light from artificial lighting including blue light wavelengths can induce circadian disruptions and decrease of the nocturnal melatonin synthesis. A Harvard study shows that blue light suppressed melatonin for about twice as more as the green light and shifted circadian rhythms by twice as much (3 hours vs. 1.5 hours). This can generate oxidative stress, increase skin photodamage and delay skin recovery at night.11,12,13 Ashland’s new lavender flower extract
targets the naturally occurring nocturnal process that helps skin boost timezyme and melatonin to optimise skin’s noctology associated with the skin’s repair, cleansing and reset at night to awaken with a renewed skin by morning, ready for daily protection.
The melatonin which is linked to the
circadian rhythm of the body, is produced by the pineal gland to help the body regulate its sleep-wake cycle. The melatonin is less known for its functions in
Figure 3: Skin’s noctology refers to essential nocturnal processes for a skin renewed by the morning. April 2020
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