122 SUN CARE
the SPF and UVA values while the organic filters do not. The analysis was carried out with a simulator Solar Oriel LCS-100TM Small Area Sol1A (solar simulator) with Xenon 100W CW lamp generating 1 Sol of irradiation with an AM1.5G filter (intensity of 166 mW/cm2
). A specific filter for UVA/UVB
radiation was used. The SPF measurements were obtained at time 0 and after 1, 2, 3 hours of irradiation with a spectrophotometer fitted with a Xenon CW lamp of 125W operating at 75W (SPF-290 Analyser System).
Stability
The filters have a characteristic structure in which the particles are anchored and dispersed. This structure leads to an improvement of the SPF and reduces the agglomeration that may be suffered by the mineral filters (especially the more reactive nanoparticles) and which affects the ageing of sun creams.
Sensoriality
Several characteristics explain the sensory improvement over other mineral filters. First, the easy dispersion in aqueous phase of the filters. Second, the volume in formula, much lower than the NPs for the same SPF result (it reduces the mineral loading). To develop formulas with colour, enhance-T avoid the need of extra pigments because iron oxides are already present. Besides, the U-S filter, thanks to its lower refractive index, is recommended for transparent formulas, and is easily incorporated both in aqueous and oily phase.
Manipulation and safety
The non-nanometric size facilitates handling in formulation. The filters are supplied in powder form and suitable PPE for particles (non-nanometric) must be used.
or ZnO mineral filters can incorporate up to 25 wt.% in formula, except in applications that can lead to the exposure of
Regulations TiO2
the end user’s lungs due to inhalation if it contains ZnO. These are the regulations that apply to enhance-T and enhanceU-S respectively.
Natural formulas EnhanceU filters are ECOCERT and COSMOS certified. According to Natural ISO 16128: 0% Natural content - 100%
Natural origin content (based on definition of natural mineral ingredients and derived mineral ingredients, Natural Origin Index =1 TiO2
, Natural Origin Index =1 SiO2 ,
Natural Origin Index= 1, CI-7791, CI-7792, CI-7799).
Besides, the filters are manufactured
according to ISO 9001:2015 and ISO 22716:2008 and FDA registered.
Conclusion In summary, ADPCosmetics proposes two natural formulas (o/w and w/o emulsions) with non-nanometric UV filters. Sun care and skin care products can be formulated with enhanceU-S while enhanceU-T gives different shades to cosmetic formulas (sunscreens, daily creams, makeup or foundations). enhanceU filters are manufactured with a patented technology that meets sustainability principles and allow ingredients for high SPF and broad- spectrum protection.
Reference 1 Anastas PT, Warner JC. Green Chemistry:
Theory and Practice, New York: Oxford University Press, 1998.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE PC April 2020
4 0
-4 -8
-12 -16
irradiation time (h) Figure 4: Photostability of enhanceU mineral filters. 1 2 3 SPF 30, photostable
4 2 0
-2 -4 -6
irradiation time (h)
n EnhanceU-T 12% n Nano TiO2 12% n Avo:octo 1:3
n Avo:octo 1:1 UVA PF up to 16, photostable
1
2
3
UVA Variation
SPF Variation
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