64 MARINE INGREDIENTS
The importance of marine sustainability
n Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
Red seaweed on the shore.
While sustainability in general has been a big focus for the personal care industry of late, perhaps the greatest surge has been with marine sustainability. We have become more aware of the extremely fragile ecosystems present in this environment and the impact industry has on them. Microplastics have been headline news across the globe, with much of the blame targeting our industry, however steps had already been taken to outlaw microplastics well before the risks had made the international newspapers. Despite this (largely as a result of David Attenborough documentaries) the persistence of glitter and exfoliant microplastics in marine environments caught the public imagination and the industry has stepped up with a wide range of alternatives. The personal care industry has in recent
years increased activity in the search for marine-derived ingredients, which has the subsequent potential to increase pressure and disruption among marine ecosystems. But ingredient suppliers are extremely careful to analyse the whole lifecycle of sourcing, harvesting and processing of
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natural produce, as well as the welfare of the communities supported by the associated trade.
Reef safe sun care
‘Coral bleaching’ is a serious threat to the delicate ecosystems and there are many initiatives to prevent further erosion. The use of some sunscreens has been indicated as a potential cause of some of the coral bleaching, through wash-off from swimmers, although there are arguments against this, including the fact that bleaching also takes place in remote locations well away from sunscreen use. Sea temperature and acidity are also known to be culprits in the bleaching process. However, the Hawaii Sunscreen Ban, which comes into effect on 1 January 2021 means that the use of the two most likely coral-harming sunscreen chemicals, oxybenzone and octinoxate, will be outlawed in the state, and this will have a big knock-on effect, especially as many of the most popular formulations contain one or other of these chemicals. Companies such as Croda and DSM
The Red Seaweed Promise Seaweeds are ancient organisms and an abundant feature of marine ecosystems all over the globe. Seaweeds have been an important foodstuff of many communities for millennia and contain high levels of iodine. Another important component of seaweed is carrageenan, which has been used as a thickening agent in food and cosmetics for many years. The thickening potential of carrageenans was discovered during the Middle Ages when Irish moss was used in Ireland for medicinal and food purposes, such as gelling milk to make tarts. In the mid twentieth century carrageenan extracts began to be made industrially from a wide range of red seaweed species and for an increasing number of uses.
One of the leading producers of carrageenan for the food and cosmetic industries is Cargill. Cargill have been highlighting the need to ensure that they
April 2020
have already been taking steps to help their customers prepare for the ban and create effective and safe sun care formulations that avoid the use of oxybenzone and octinoxate.
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