SUN CARE 119
Natural formulations with non-nano mineral UV filters
n Dr Blanca Motos-Pérez, Rocío Pérez – ADP Cosmetics, Spain
Whatever the season of the year, daily care should incorporate a sunscreen. It allows mitigating the adverse effects of the sun, which is an accelerator of skin ageing. Delaying the ageing of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and spots, is one of the main objectives of consumers when selecting a cosmetic product. In addition, their commitment to sustainability and cosmetics with natural claims is growing due to the association of the natural concept with milder and healthier skin products that are environmentally innocuous. From a technical point of view, we should take into account the entire life cycle of the cosmetic products that include their design, manufacture, use, and ultimate disposal. Cosmetics manufacturers may find in the Twelve Principles of Green Chemistry1 a recognised guide to reduce the environmental impact and the potential negative health effects of producing chemicals and cosmetics. To introduce a sustainable product on the market, we should start with the first protagonists of the life cycle of a cosmetic, ingredients manufactures and skin care formulators. In their hands is the choice of ingredients that possess little /no toxicity to human health and the environment and that are efficient in their function. They are, we are, responsible for the selection of ingredients, and cosmetics, with energy efficient manufacture procedures that also minimise the need for raw materials and the use of auxiliary substances (e.g. solvents). In this context, ADPCosmetics has developed natural formulas to take care of the skin and protect it from UV radiation. These formulas contain multifunctional ingredients which allow minimising the number of necessary ingredients in the manufacture of the cosmetic product. By choosing formulas with a lower number of ingredients, we contribute to reducing the set of manufacturing processes and associated waste.
Natural formula for skin care and sun care: Feel young The first natural formula developed by
April 2020 Abstract
ADPCosmetics presents two natural cosmetic formulations that follow Green Chemistry Principles. Non nanometric UV filters included in these formulations are multifunctional and efficient, to minimise the need of ingredients. EnhanceU filters are manufactured with ADParticles technology that is environmentally friendly and efficient in terms of energy, raw materials and (absence of) solvent consumption. Therefore, the two formulations here presented, named Feel Young and Feel Warm, are natural w/o and o/w emulsions respectively, both for skin care and suncare. enhanceU-S and enhanceU- T-warm filters allow obtaining SPF30-50 while efficiently protecting from UVA radiation and are appropriate options when looking for ingredients for sustainable cosmetics.
Figure 1: Feel young cream w/o formulation.
ADPCosmetics is ‘Feel young’, a w/o emulsion with ingredients for UV protection, hydration and reparation of the skin (Fig 1).
SPF30 ‘Feel young’ (INCI): Aqua, Zinc oxide, Isoamyl Cocoate, Sorbitan Olivate, Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3, lauryl olivate, Titanium Dioxide, Silica, Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera (coconut) Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Pentylene Glycol (and) Phenylpropanol, Sodium Chloride, Parfum, Cellulose Gum, Chondrus crispus Powder (Carrageenan), Ceratonia siliqua Gum, Sucrose. (pH 7)
Protection from both UVB and UVA radiation is achieved with only one ingredient, enhanceU-S (now referred to as ‘U-S’), a non-nanometric mineral UV filter (Figure 2 includes DLS analysis, one of the techniques to check the particles’ size) with INCI: Zinc oxide, Titanium dioxide, silica. The natural formula Feel Young showed SPF30 with 12wt% U-S concentration (INCI of the formula here included) and SPF50 with 15wt% U-S concentration. The protection from UVA radiation is shown by UVA/UVB> 0.6, which doubles the minimum value of UVA protection required UVA/UVB> 0.3m and critical wavelength >370 nm (in vitro measurements). U-S filter
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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