ANTIPERSPIRANTS 115
controls, and/or establishing a standardised phytochemical profile.
l It may be harder to work with natural extracts. For example, are they prone to contamination (e.g. metals, allergens)? Do they present preservation concerns? In contrast, the current aluminum-based formulations are generally considered to be self-preserved.
l Formulations containing natural extracts could have a shorter shelf-life due to degradation of the active component overtime. It may be appropriate to identify and follow several marker compounds to track stability.
Ingredient sourcing, quality assurance, and consistency
Some advantages to the FDA’s regulatory control over antiperspirant ingredients are quality assurance of ingredients and final formulations along with clear labelling of active ingredient concentration. With botanical natural products, the same regulatory assurances are not in place. From a consumer standpoint, they cannot determine how much lemongrass oil is used in a lemongrass antiperspirant, as this level of labelling transparency is not required. They also do not know where the lemongrass oil came from or its clinical
efficacy. It is a ‘buyer beware’ marketplace. The same is largely true for antiperspirant manufacturers when it comes to botanical ingredient sourcing. Although manufacturers control the concentration of ingredients in their final formula and may test for clinical efficacy, the botanical ingredient supply chain is opaque. Botanical suppliers (plant raw material or plant extract supplier) must be chosen carefully to assure supply chain transparency and batch-to-batch consistency. Ingredient adulteration, inhumane labour practices, and environmental injustices are common in the botanical industry. Ethical issues can lead to legal pitfalls when international or federal laws are broken or when consumer safety is compromised. Problems with batch-to-batch inconsistency can produce ingredients that lack efficacy, have off-odours, or off-colours. The latter two issues can have an immediate negative, perceptible effect on a formula, especially if the ingredient is used at high concentrations. For many types of cosmetics, botanical ‘actives’ are added in very low concentrations and efficacy is not immediate (e.g. anti-ageing creams). The same is not true for natural antiperspirants. If the product is not effective, a consumer will know when they
start to sweat. In this product category, ingredient quality control is of high importance.
Plant extract stability–powders vs. liquids Liquid botanical ingredients contain a botanical extract mixed in solvents like glycerin and glycols. These botanical liquids are easy to formulate with, as they do not require a lot of work to dissolve and incorporate into the formula. Two big disadvantages are limits on concentration and shelf stability. Liquid formulations usually contain only 1-10% plant extract in a liquid carrier. If your final antiperspirant formula requires 5% plant extract for efficacy, this may not be achievable with dilute liquids. Many natural products are easily oxidised, especially at room temperature in the presence of water, alcohols, or other solvents. A reduction in efficacy may precede any perceptible change in colour or odour. We have observed significant, rapid degradation of phytochemicals in plant extracts when stored in a liquid or cream base. In contrast, we found dry extracts from the same plants retained their phytochemical integrity and clinical antiperspirant efficacy for 18-24 months at room temperature (unpublished data).
The method used to dry plant extracts
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