TEXTURES 185


Table 4: Basic formulation Phase Ingredient 1


Glycerine (99%)


Sisterna PS750-C / Sisterna SP70-C or


2 3


Sisterna L70-C Sunflower oil


Deionised water


Microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum


Preservative


% w/w 5


1 3.75 5 Ad 100 1.50 -


deviation in droplet sizes compared to producing with an intermediate concentrated O/G emulsification step. This manufacturing technique is great for making natural wipe and spray applications such as baby wipes, wet wipes or makeup cleansing wipes and sun sprays, moisturising sprays or conditioning sprays. This unique method ensures that you do not need to use ethoxylated non-ionic emulsifiers, which are usually used to make these kind of liquid emulsions. The small droplet size also makes it a good basis for a serum with active ingredients. Depending on the use of the product a suitable stabiliser is needed. For sprayable emulsions this would be a stabiliser that does not give viscosity build up. Good test results are obtained with microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum at 1.5%. For a serum a stabiliser with more viscosity buildup, like sclerotium gum, can be recommended.


The benefits of sucrose esters Using sucrose esters in personal care formulations has, next to the mentioned concentrated emulsion techniques, great benefits. It is a non-ionic and PEG free / ethylene oxide free emulsifier which is very mild on the skin. So it is suitable for making


100000 80000 60000 40000 20000 0 20% oil 30% oil Figure 6: Viscosity with 3% SP70-C. April 2020 40% oil 50% oil 60% oil


100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0


n Concentrated O/G emulsion intermediate phase n High shear homogenisation n Extra high pressure homogenisation (500bar)c


0.01


0.1 Figure 5: Droplet size distribution.


cosmetics for sensitive skin or products for children and babies. It even has irritation reducing capacities when you dose it with other (anionic) surfactants / emulsifiers which are more aggressive, making the total formulation milder on the skin. The most well-known benefit of sucrose esters is the skin-feel. It gives a very soft touch when applying it to the skin and it also has a velvet-like after skin-feel. This skin-feel is largely independent of the oil phase. Even when you dose a high percentage of butters, the greasiness will be eliminated by the use of sucrose esters. Skin moisturisation is one of the most important aspects of personal care products. Sucrose esters increase the smoothness, emolliency and moisture level of the skin by itself, making it more than just an emulsifier. Sucrose esters are also used as a food grade ingredient which does not have any taste or odor of its own and does not cause any color deformation in production. Being edible is usually important for formulators it indicates that it is very safe to use. Next to this they are natural and easily biodegradable, certified for the commonly used natural certifications in Europe and the United States.


Some selective anti-microbial activities n Viscosity IPM in mPa.s n Viscosity sunflower oil in mPa.s


are present for Sisterna SP70-C. It is actively targeting bacteria causing baby rash, athletes’ foot and odour formation, making the emulsifier an active ingredient in these kind of products. Important fact is that it does not interfere with the skin flora. The high HLB sucrose esters are also


cold processable in standard emulsions (and also in some concentrated emulsions). It is an easy, economical, time saving and environmentally friendly process.


Sucrose esters and the eco-friendly and simple & effective formulations trend It is a well-known trend that consumers are more and more considering the naturality of a formulation, but we notice a shifting towards the biodegradability of products and the way a product is being made. Furthermore they are aware that having a long INCI list on the packaging does not mean that a product is better. It is expected that in the future this long INCI list will have a more negative effect. Because of the multifunctionality of


sucrose esters, like the mildness, skin moisturisation and great skin-feel, combined with the cold processability, naturality and biodegradability of the sucrose esters, you can make very effective and responsible formulations with a short INCI list. The only thing you need to dose next to water and sucrose esters are the oils of your liking, stabilising system, preservative and of course the active ingredient of your choice. A good example of this is the basic formulation mentioned at the diluted gel-to-milk concentrated emulsions paragraphs, but making a typical O/W emulsion with a 20% to 60% oil phase with 2% to 3% of Sisterna SP70-C is also a good possibility to meet this trend. The amount of oil that you need to dose is depending on the viscosity that you would like to achieve, as shown in Figure 6. A higher internal phase will give more viscosity buildup.


PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


1.0


10.0 Particle Diameter (µm.)


100.0


1000.0


%


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