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incorrect information is out in the public domain,” she says, “it is very difficult to counter it and so the misunderstandings perpetuate. One huge misconception out there is that natural fragrance materials are better for the skin, but most natural materials contain allergens.”
Despite the morass of information available, there is still much that industry needs to do to improve education and understanding in a world where some people still persist in saying they want ‘chemical-free’ products.
Angela Stavrevska recognises this
problem. She says: “Some do not recognise that everything in the world is made up of chemicals. The word has been so badly represented over the years that this nonsensical idea that all ‘chemicals’ are ‘toxic’ has grown. Water is a chemical and is toxic if you drink too much of it!
“The industry owes it to the consumer to work together from source to shelf to try and improve education and knowledge. I think raw material suppliers, chemists, fragrance houses and industry governing bodies need to be much more vocal about what they do and how they make products better. I also think brands need to show integrity and avoid ‘greenwashing’. People are becoming disenchanted with ‘fake news’ and can easily find other brands that better suit their ethical standpoint.”
Sustainability
Linked to these issues is sustainability. In response to this need, CPL Aromas introduced their EcoBoost concept nearly a decade ago. Ecoboost has proved extremely popular over the years but increasingly so over the past 12 to 18 months as the sustainability angle resonates strongly with customers on a global scale. Ecoboost uses just 10% of the normal fragrance dosage with no compromise in strength or quality. Through this ground-breaking technology, clients are able to create enticing fragranced products, while drastically reducing their packaging, transport, energy and disposal costs. EcoBoost can readily be applied to the Naturals Platform as the two ideas complement one and other perfectly. By creating 100% natural Ecoboost fragrances CPL Aromas can supply fragrances that support both a natural and a sustainable claim.
Angela Stavrevska says: “Sustainability is a huge focus for CPL and we see Ecoboost as one of our biggest opportunities for supporting our customers in meeting their sustainability endeavours. If every customer used 10 times less fragrance across all of their product line-up imagine the significant amount of packaging and freight that would be reduced on a global scale.” CPL Aromas has Ecoboost fragrances available on the global marketplace across
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
most product categories. It makes good sense for customers as one major retail customer in Poland recognises, referencing Ecoboost in their marketing as they believe it sends out a powerful message. Asked how the Group is communicating the Naturals Platform work to customers, Angela Stavrevska says: “We have done extensive internal training about the Naturals Platform so that our sales, perfumery and technical teams can work closely with, and educate, our customers to ensure we create fragrances that fully support their required marketing claims and brand ethics. The naturals market is complicated so we want to give our customers as much support as possible.
“Combining our Natural Platform material classifications, along with other more established criteria such as allergen content, we can work alongside our customers in building fragrances that mirror and support their natural and ethical stance without being prescriptive or rigid in our approach. Our definition of ‘eco-friendly’ beauty may be slightly different to that of our customers, but by working in partnership we can develop some amazing fragrances in support of their business needs.”
Commenting on how CPL predicts the market will develop in the next two years with regard to demand for natural products and sustainably sourced materials and whether there is conflict with these two areas, she adds: “Natural products and sustainability are no longer trends but are part and parcel of product development now and into the future. But they are two very different things. Eventually I think the use of natural resources will be much more considered, alongside the use of ‘safe chemicals’, so we reach an equilibrium of using both types of material, with sustainability as the overarching driver. “We have developed our Responsible Sourcing Policy that integrates the idea of
sustainability and wider supply chain ethical practices into all of our raw materials to support our business practices as a whole. At the moment sustainability is usually linked with natural resources and how crops are grown and harvested. But as part of our policy we are also looking at, and improving, the sustainability of synthetic raw materials and how these are manufactured in terms of such things as feedstocks, by-products created and energy used.”
Regulations
Regulatory changes emerging within EU regulations may, even after all the post-Brexit negotiations are completed, still affect the UK. The EU has recently made ‘free from’ claims much harder to support; claims that are used widely in the naturals market. An example is that companies cannot claim a product to be ‘free from lactose’ when that product type would never contain lactose anyway. This, CPL believes, is a positive step forward in helping the consumer make informed purchasing decisions that are not driven by empty marketing claims. Angela Stavrevska points to a practical issue which may affect future use of naturals. “For many years the EU has been discussing listing all allergens present in natural raw materials in the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list, which would considerably increase the size of most INCI lists. If this happens, we may see the use of naturals curtailed as the information simply won’t fit on the finished product label,” she says.
Conclusion
The conclusion is that, through its introduction of the Naturals Platform, this fragrance house has been able to consolidate marketing, regulatory, raw material and creative expertise in order to help customers navigate the natural market via a succinct and understandable system. Importantly, the platform enables the Group to work towards fulfilling its environmental and social sustainability ambitions. As CEO Chris Pickthall wrote in the
foreword to his company’s Sustainability Report: “Sustainable, honest, ethical and responsible working practices are integral to our business and to the future of our industry. The rising pressures on the planet and society from factors such as pollution, climate change, rising population, inefficient use of resources, improper waste management and so on, impact our business, employees, customers and communities. ...We recognise that our actions and decisions impact a global value chain. ” “The Naturals Platform is a means of
creating 100% natural fragrances in a clear, sustainable and transparent way,” says Angela Stavrevska. Defining just what ‘natural’ means just got better.
PC April 2020
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