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that Indian sandalwood oil is a powerful antioxidant and offers protection against blue light damage. To evaluate the effects of Indian
sandalwood oil on skin, the level of oxidised squalene was monitored as a measurement of skin oxidation. The study assessed the protective effect of a cosmetic product containing Indian sandalwood oil against cutaneous oxidative stress induced by environmental pollution such as ambient dust and blue light at a wavelength of 412 nm. The study is the first clinical trial proving
that Indian sandalwood oil at a concentration between 1% and 10% protects the skin against the oxidative stress induced by ambient dust and blue light exposure.2 The results indicated that there was a dose-
dependent decrease in the levels of free radical damage, with a concentration of Quintis Indian sandalwood (1%) representing a 24% decrease in squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH) compared to non-treated study areas. Given these ongoing reinforced results, the benefits of Indian sandalwood oil are clear. There is a significant opportunity for cosmetic brands to consider incorporating Indian sandalwood oil into their waterless formulations as a protective and active anti- ageing, multifunctional ingredient in cosmetics and dermatology, opening up the potential to offer those benefits to consumers through a range of topical products. The benefits even stack up against other
trending oil ingredients that have recently been coveted in formulations over the last couple of years, like cannabidiol (CBD) oil as an example. Until recently, CBD and other cannabis
ingredients were restricted globally as they were considered a narcotic substance, however it has become more mainstream off the back of research which suggests that it can help manage pain and inflammation. Cosmetic application, however, is a newer
use-case of CBD. The effectiveness of the oil as a cosmetic ingredient is mostly anecdotal, with claims around skin brightening, anti-ageing and anti-acne properties not substantiated
www.personalcaremagazine.com
by research or correlating concentration levels. Whilst there have been some studies conducted on the antioxidant activity of CBD, these studies are based on gene expression, rather than actual cellular or clinical evidence, unlike Indian sandalwood. One of the main advantages of Indian
sandalwood oil is the volume of research that has been conducted into its efficacy – it has proven antioxidant, anti-microbial, anti- tyrosinase and anti-inflammatory benefits. Secondly, it is recognised internationally as
a safe ingredient – it is an approved ingredient on the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC), is considered safe for skin application by International Fragrance Association (IFRA), and Quintis’ oil meets standards set by bodies such as International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and the British Pharmacopoeia. CBD oil, on the other hand, is not required
to meet national or international standards and seems to be mostly self-regulated by the producers. The lack of a regulatory framework is one of the reasons China banned CBD oil for use in cosmetics, while other peak industry bodies in the EU and North America are expressing their concerns. Overall, this multi-functionality and the
fact that these qualities are realised at low concentrations – typically around 1% - place sandalwood in its own unique category. It is a single ingredient that can replace several ingredients within a formulation, enabling brands to tap into beauty trends around ‘less- is-more cosmetics’ or ‘skinimalism’, and waste reduction. There is a clear and continued need for
finding ways to supply this ancient ingredient sustainably and ethically into the future, and Quintis is committed to continuing to invest in studies and trials to explore Indian sandalwood oil as a multi-purpose and highly effective antioxidant ingredient in cosmetics.
Sustainability is so much more than environmental responsibility Water deficiency is quickly rising to be a leading threat to the global environment,
and the commitment to a water responsible lifestyle within the cosmetics and beauty industry has been trickling into existence over the last few years. The rise of waterless, or water responsible, beauty is imminent and there is increasing pressure for beauty and personal care brands to take a proactive approach to prioritise sustainability. While it is up to consumers to shift in
how they approach their individual beauty routines and actively curate their own line up of conscious options, it is the formulators responsibility to ensure the production process is just as conscious. As part of that, ingredient producers have a key role to play to create a space for an ethical and sustainable supply so that all parties can reduce their effect on the planet by watching their water footprint. Quintis cares deeply about creating a
brighter, healthier future for sandalwood, the environment, and communities within which it operates. By opting for circular practices, taking a firm stance on ethical supply, and reducing footprints within a strict chain of custody protocol, Quintis can guarantee a renewable supply of sandalwood into the future.
PC
References 1. United Nations Department of Economic and Social Affairs. Water for Life Decade. https://
www.un.org/waterforlifedecade/scarcity. shtml
2. Metrix Focus Group. Perceptions of Sandalwood. 2021
3. Chandana S. Part I, Volume III, Ayurveda Pharmacopoeia of India. Department of Indian System of Medicine and Homeopathy. New Delhi India: Ministry of Health. 2011. p. 208-9
4. Francois-Newton V et al. Antioxidant and Anti-Aging Potential of Indian Sandalwood Oil against Environmental Stressors In Vitro and Ex Vivo. Cosmetics. 2021, 8(2), 53.
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8020053
5. Kolanthan VL et al. Clinical Evaluation of Indian Sandalwood Oil and Its Protective Effect on the Skin against the Detrimental Effect of Exposome. Cosmetics. 2022; 9(2), 35.
https://doi.org/10.3390/ cosmetics9020035
May 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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