32 ANTI-POLLUTION
2.5 particles) was removed after water rinsing. The assumed cause of these highly effective properties is that the non-ionic structure of the sclerotium gum avoids bond with any charged metal or other anionic/cationic structure. This is the perfect nature-derived shield to the skin. Moreover, the film of 1% sclerotium gum
homogenizes the surface by decreasing peaks and microfolds by 23%. This smoother surface of the skin can be perceived by consumers when the natural polymer is applied within a formula. The sclerotium gum brings high value to formulators as a replacement for synthetic polymers.
Conclusion The sclerotium gum from Cargill Beauty (Actigum™ range) is a high-end rheology modifier. This biopolymer, 100% nature- derived according to ISO 16128 standards and readily biodegradable, is part of the best alternatives to synthetic polymer. With these new studies, the sclerotium
gum becomes more than a polymer for the brand; it acts as a real defence for the skin, creating a biopolymer shield protection from pollution effects. It also acts as skin sensory enhancer to bring skin smoothness after application.
Higher surface
Surface
200 150 100 50 0
-50 -100 -150
Deepest Surface
-200 improvement
Skin surface roughness
+23%** Figure 8: Reduction of roughness by sclerotium gum. **P<0.001 PICK-UP Consistency* PC
References 1. Ia Khmaladze et al. Review: The Skin Interactome: A Holistic “Genome- Microbiome-Exposome” Approach to Understand and Modulate Skin Health and Aging. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2020:13 1021–1040
2. World Health Organization. Ambient Air Pollution: A Global Assessment of Exposure and Burden of Disease. 2016; pp. 1–131
3. Ruhollah A, Farnaz A, Mohammadreza T, Armin A, Baharnaz M, Reza MR. The impact of air pollution on skin and related disorders: A comprehensive review. Dermatologic Therapy. 2021;34:e14840
4. Kantar Profiles/Mintel, March 2021, June 2021, April 2020
SCLEROTIUM GUM
Sclerotium gum is a natural polysaccharide obtained through the fermentation of sugar with the microorganism Sclerotium rolfsii (S. rolfsii). This 100% nature- derived exopolysaccharide (EPS) is non-ionic and hydro-soluble with gelling, stabilizing, premium sensory, and suspending properties, making it ever more used in diverse cosmetic applications. Thanks to its unique
triple helix structure, sclerotium gum provides
PERSONAL CARE May 2023
superior thickening capacity as well as high stability versus pH, shear, temperature, and salt. Sclerotium gum can act as nature-derived alternative to conventional petroleum-derived polymers in cosmetic formulations. As an example, the Actigum range from Cargill uses 100% renewable feedstocks, using a white biotechnology process, and is readily biodegradable, China compliant and Cosmos approved.
Glucose sidechain
CH2
Glucose Backbone
HO OH O OH OH HO O OH CH2 HO OH O OH OH CH2 OH O 4 HO O 3 2 OH
Structure of sclerotium gum. The glucose side-chain (1.6)-b-D-units prevent the polymer chains from stacking and improves the solubility in water at room temperature
www.personalcaremagazine.com 6
CH2 5
O 1 O
JUST AFTER APPLICATION
Sticky Shiny
AFTERFEEL 2MIN
Smoothness 2 min*
Smoothness
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 Greasy Film
Greasy on the fingers
Spread* Emulsion 0.15% Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Crosspolymer ■ Emulsion with 1% Sclerotium Gum ■
BEFORE APPLICATION
10 MIN AFTER APPLICATION
Penetration APPLICATION DURING
Sticky on the fingers
Freshness effect
Figure 9: Sensory profile comparing emulsion with 1% sclerotium gum and 0.15% acrylate C10-30 Alkyl crosspolymer
z (µm)
γ (mm)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119
