SURFACTANTS
Foaming and lather Foaming is of particular importance to consumers in surfactants, the ability to do this without additives or more expensive surfactants is a large steppingstone. Better quality surfactants concentrate at the air and water point and reduce surface tension, allowing more time for bubbles to foam and spread.1
Foaming
is the result of complex surfactant blends and is not something one surfactant alone has traditionally been able to produce. Traditionally, cationic polymers and anionic
surfactants are used for foaming properties. Secondary surfactants, like betaine, are added to formulations for optimal foaming properties. However, without SLS/SLES the foaming capability is yet to be mastered. Formulations that combine secondary surfactants can help match key properties of existing blends, but risk reducing foaming capability.2 A strong lather can be a sign of a more
efficient surface cleaner due to its ability to spread. However, foaming and lather have developed strong aesthetic benefits to consumers over time. Foaming gives consumers the impression of luxury, premium and cleaning quality in products, regardless of the actual detergency potential. Many surfactants look to boost foaming for its cleaning properties, but also to meet the consumer demand and expectation for this property.
Natural Making a ‘natural’ surfactant involves the use of both science and consumer intuition. Its definition varies per consumer and producer but there are a few common key markers. First, the cosmetics market is moving towards products with more naturally derived ingredients. This can include natural preservatives like benzyl acid or plant extracts. Other natural dyes and emulsifiers are encouraged to further move away from synthetic or unnatural ingredients. Reducing the need for synthetic thickeners in cosmetics, such as carbomers, is another step in the right direction. Being natural also means reducing
the product impact on the environment. Unsustainably obtained palm oil has been the topic of further scrutiny and restrictions in cosmetics, another product used in certain sulphates. Ensuring sustainable and regenerative processes are in place for ingredients is important as consumers seek transparency. Practices that reduce water usage and waste are encouraged, with expectancy to increase biodegradation profiles.
Animal cruelty and products Animal testing in cosmetics is a topic that does not get the attention it previously had thanks to increasing regional restrictions. However, there are still animal-tested products on the market, more commonly including sulphates. Moving away from this is not only a moral obligation for companies, but it also helps promote more sustainable practices that can trickle down to consumers. Another side of this is reducing animal
products in surfactant formulations. These pointers help comply with multiple consumer
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choices and requirements, from veganism to halal. Importantly, producing sustainable surfactants now helps prepare for this significant change before it is enforced by future regulation. This helps secures the longevity of the surfactant for future use as the industry slowly clamps down on unsustainable or damaging practices.
International compliant and certificated International approval and compliance are essential for product growth and value. As touched upon previously, meeting industry regulations and approval is growing more important. There are multiple organisations that are essential to for new ingredients to meet, this includes the RSPO (Roundtable
for Sustainable Palm Oil), multiple ISO (International Organization for Standardization) certifications, COSMOS (Cosmetic Organic and Natural Standard) for organic ingredients and so forth. This ensures the product has the support of the industry and improves the reputation of the product in future.
Focusing on the future When looking forward, sulphate-free is just one point on a list of key expectations in persona care. More products need to focus on creating formulations that not only meet the five areas of performance, but also are flexible, natural, foaming and regulated. There is a slow rise in speciality formulations reaching the market currently, a result of the time lag from
May 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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