18 INTERVIEW
materials, capturing claim benefits to properly manage expectations, and recyclable/refillable packaging allows consumers to use transparency to incite purchase intent.
TP: Are you seeing this trend for transparency coming from consumers? AE: Yes, the trend for transparency has come from consumers on multiple fronts. From a claims perspective, consumers are seeking less marketing fluff and more communication on how well products can perform against for their needs, especially in such a crowded market space. This challenges product developers to ensure high performance and to support their products with compelling and relatable claims. From a sustainability
perspective, part of the experience consumers have with their cosmetics is a sense of the impact of product usage, like waste generation, ingredient souring and their effect on the environment, the treatment and support of local workers. Consumers are more in tune with these points and more companies are implementing measures like packaging recycling/ refilling programmes, more communication about the way ingredients are sourced and the impactful relationships with local communities.
TP: You say consumers are becoming better educated. Does that extend to just the brand or the products and ingredients? SH: They look at the claims, so when brands make strong claims they will do large consumer tests, and that’s the information that the end consumer will see. As for the data, yes, we’re seeing more exposure because brands are realising that this is what the consumer is looking for and this was information that was previously ‘closed door’. Data is now being utilised to
leverage in a way that allows the consumer to have visibility and to understand how the claims are being substantiated. This needs to be easy to interpret…whether it’s through a QR code or on a brand website or social media.
TP: Is there anything that personal care ingredient producers and suppliers can learn from the education side of things?
PERSONAL CARE May 2023
“I think that you’re going to see consolidation in the market as
minimalism is definitely going to be huge in terms of ingredient list” Stacey House - NYSCC chair and senior VP for consumer beauty R&D at Coty
SH: For the suppliers, it is about being able to understand what the landscape looks like, what is trending, but also to have foresight. Suppliers need to be able
to anticipate, how to be able to build their portfolios, to be agile and to also know they need robust claims to achieve market penetration and growth. I think that you’re going to see
consolidation in the market as minimalism is definitely going to be huge in terms of ingredient list. That’s because as consumers get more educated they’re not going to want to see a lengthy list. They want to know that it’s going to be very concise, that it’s going to deliver.
TP: Amber, how does multifunctionality come into play at Moroccanoil? AE: Multifunctionality is always of interest when we are considering ingredients for our products. This is beneficial from a formulation and production standpoint. If we can deliver high-performing products with fewer ingredients, then it’s a win. Sustainability is also always of interest, whether that be based on the ingredient
sourcing story like upcycling or enabling cold processing. The key thing that we look for
when evaluating ingredients is performance. We lean towards ingredients with excellent efficacy data and awards/nominations.
TP: Moroccanoil is ubiquitous these days. I see stickers in hairdressing salons all over London. What is the secret of Moroccanoil’s success? AE: The key to Moroccanoil’s success has been a commitment to launching performance-driven products that provide consumers and stylists with an elevated beauty care experience. The brand started with an award- winning hair treatment oil and has expanded to a portfolio of several shampoos, conditioners, stylers and masks. Last year we launched a full hair colour line complete with permanent and demi- permanent colorants, lighteners, developers and mixers. Additionally, we have a body
care line consisting of cleansers, moisturizers, exfoliators, oils and a fragrance mist. We have a robust multi-segment pipeline that we look forward to bringing to market.
TP: Is there a worry that Moroccanoil could almost get too successful in a way, that people will look for the next big thing and then dump you? AE: Not at all. The cosmetic industry is quite saturated with many old and new brands, but we are confident in our continued success. We are mindful of potential
threats to the brand and work to mitigate the risk of impact. However, our primary focus is on addressing the needs of consumers and stylists with top- tier, high-performing products through development, innovation and education.
TP: What trends are you seeing in terms of hair care ingredients? AE: In addition to the key trends of biobased and biotech ingredients and scalp-focused hair care, I’m seeing growth in the following areas. One, ingredients that address the effects of environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation on hair. Two, bond-building reparative
ingredients that help combat the damaging effects of chemical treatments such as colorants.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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