30 ANTI-POLLUTION
1
Application of the product (2mg/cm2
on skin explant)
2
Particles deposition of PM2.5 with a brush
3 Figure 2: Experimental design – removability of pollutant matter PM 2.5 on skin explant
surface topography analysis with Polytec TMS 500, and consumer panel evaluations. The sclerotium gum at 1% forms a thin and homogenous film which is able to significantly reduce the roughness of the skin. The high efficacy of the sclerotium gum film
for anti-adhesion of various pollutants and dust has been proven in vitro with a gel at 1% by SEM-FEG analysis and confirmed in vivo on the volar forearms of volunteers with a gel formula at 0.6% and 1% by SEM and image analysis.
Methods 1. Film morphology after product application ex vivo
The film morphology was evaluated using a SEM-FEG (Scanning Electron Microscopy- Field Emission Gun) after a single application of 2mg/cm2
on the stratum corneum (SC) of a
skin explant. The gel applied contains 1% of sclerotium gum and was compared to an untreated area.
2. Removability of pollutant matter (PM 2.5) after product application ex vivo A standardized test was developed to evaluate the adhesion of pollutant (PM 2.5) on the stratum corneum. The product was applied as a film with 2 mg/cm2 skin explant. After 20 minutes of drying, a
on a
quantitative amount of PM 2.5 particle was applied with a brush. One area was not treated with a product
but was otherwise subjected to the same test procedure and then used as a reference (untreated). Thereafter, the surface was gently cleaned using blowing air and water. The analysis of PM2.5 on the stratum
corneum was done by SEM-FEG coupled with chemical energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDX). Different elements such as Pb, Cd and Ce are clearly identifiable and analyzable by EDX.
3. Removability of dust after product application in vivo The test was conducted on 22 women and men (12/10) volunteers with Fitzpatrick phototypes I-III and skin types: dry, normal, oily skin. The environment dust selected was a mixture of particles, pollen, etc. with a size distribution that also included particles smaller than PM 2.5 in order to be closer to the natural environment. A single application of two gel formulas
at 0.6% and 1% of sclerotium gum of 2mg/ cm2
was applied to the volar forearm for 30
minutes. Then the environmental test dust was applied. From the application field a sample of the skin surface covered with test dust was taken. The test field was then
washed with a defined amount of water. After waiting for five minutes to dry, a new aluminum carrier covered with an adhesive foil was pressed against the skin for five seconds and a sample was taken from the skin surface. The sample corresponds to the SEM sample after pollution application and after washing. The imaging of the sample surface was performed using an SEM (DSM 940, Zeiss) and semi-quantification by image analysis using the software ImageJ.
4. Skin topography after product application ex vivo The test was performed on skin explants (SC) with an application of 1% sclerotium gum at 2mg/cm2
. The skin surface topography was
measured before application and ten minutes after application using the Polytec TMS 500 and a special image analysis software (Polytec TMS 3.8 software).
5. Sensory analysis on cream in vivo Two sets of simple creams at iso-viscosity (13,000-15,000mPA.s) were prepared according to standardized conditions. The only difference between the two creams was the type of rheology modifier used. The former cream contained a petro-based
Higher surface
Surface
200 150 100 50 0
Deepest Surface
-50 -100 -150 -200
Figure 3: Modelisation of effect to reduce roughness of skin PERSONAL CARE May 2023 SMOOTHING EFFECT
The product application reduces small peaks and micofolds, which results in a decrease in the skin roughness parameter
polymer (acrylate /C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) and the latter contained 1% of sclerotium gum. An expert panel of 16 Caucasian women evaluated the performance of the two creams at different stages of application – pick up; during application; just after application, and two minutes after application.
Results 1. Formation of film to protect skin and homogenize surface One percent of sclerotium gum provided a thin homogeneous film on the skin (Figure 4). The picture on the left shows the surface of the human stratum corneum untreated versus the sclerotium gum film on the right. On untreated skin, squams and rough
aspects can be observed compared to the smooth and homogeneous film with sclerotium gum. The film covers the entire surface and creates a shield on top of the skin.
2. Shield film of sclerotium gum decreased adhesion of PM 2.5 pollutant on skin explant The ease of removability of PM 2.5 pollutant from skin explant was evaluated by the
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Blowing with air and cleansing with water
4
Analysis by SEM- FEG + EDX
z (µm) γ (mm)
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