PRODUCT PROTECTION
forces in the sample, in the form of increasing levels of reactive tocopherol radicals. A high background oxidation rate over a long period of time can lead to adverse aesthetic effects such as rancid odour or discolouration of the formulation. As demonstrated, the addition of ascorbyl
palmitate successfully eliminated this negative effect by recycling the tocopherols. This observation inside a cosmetic formulation is consistent with the literature in that ascorbyl palmitate is able to regenerate tocopherols to their original antioxidant form.23
How does Evonik support the formulator? Oxidation protection is an essential element in ensuring the shelf life of a cosmetic product. The growing number of new natural ingredients, their more careful and sustainable use in cosmetic formulations, the variety of complex measurement methods and the declining use of established, reliable petrochemical solutions confront the formulator with an almost unmanageable complexity. Evonik, known for its profound expertise in holistic product protection, is assisting formulators in their quest to meet the growing trend toward more sustainable and natural ingredients. Evonik is committed to providing evidence-based data on oxidation protection to help formulators optimize the shelf life of their cosmetic products, find the optimal natural antioxidant for their system and unlock synergies between ingredients. The new method developed by Evonik
is a prerequisite for achieving these goals. It measures the oxidative stability of a cosmetic product under conditions relevant to cosmetics and provides formulators with application- oriented recommendations for use. With a deeper understanding, new
technical capabilities and a focus on the formulator’s challenges, it is time to rethink the oxidation protection of cosmetics.
References 1. Lupo MP. Antioxidants and vitamins in cosmetics. Clin Dermatol. 2001; 19(4): 467-473
2. Kusumawati I, Indrayanto G. Chapter 15 – Natural Antioxidants in Cosmetics. in: Studies in Natural Products Chemistry. Oxford, 2013. pp. 485-503
3. Bom S, Fitas M, Martins AM, Pinto P, Ribeiro HM, Marto J. Replacing Synthetic Ingredients by Sustainable Natural Alternatives: A Case Study Using Topical O/W Emulsions. Molecules. 2020; 25(21): 4887
4. De Lima Cherrebium DJ, Buzanello Martins CV , Farina LO, Aparecida da Silva de Lucca R. Polyphenols as a natural antioxidants in cosmetic applications. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2020; 19(1): 33-37
5. Mellou F, Varvaresou A, Papageorgiou S. Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations. Int. J. Cosm. Sci. 2019; 41: 517-525
6. Goissard V, Aubrey JM, Nardello-Rataj. Bio-based alternatives to volatile
www.personalcaremagazine.com PC
Trendline for dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO + dermofeel AP MB ■ Trendline for dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO ■
18 16 14 12 10 1 6 Runtime in weeks
Figure 4: The trendlines depict the course of the ‘average weekly oxygen levels’ measured for O/W Emulsion B (%) over a total time period of 12 weeks. (Green dashed line) O/W Emulsion B including 0.5% DF Toco 70 non GMO and (orange dashed line) including 0.5% DF Toco 70 non GMO with additional 0.2% DF AP MB. In the absence of DF AP MB (green dashed line), the basic background oxidation rate of the emulsion increases steadily over a 12-week period. In the presence of DF AP MB, the basic background oxidation rate remains stable over time (orange dashed line). This is due to the regeneration of tocopherols by ascorbyl palmitate
silicones: Relationship between chemical structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances. Adv. Colloid Interface Sci. 2022; 304: DOI: 10.1016/j. cis.2022.102679
7. Duprat de Paule S, Guibot J, Roso A. Cambos S, Pierre A. Augmented bio-based lipides for cosmetics. EDP Sci. 2018; 25(5): DOI:10.1051/OCL/2018036
8. Athanasiadis V, Chatzimitakos T, Kalmompatsios D, Palaiogiannis D, Makrygiannis I, Bozinou E, Lalas SI. Evaluation of the Efficacy and Synergistic Effect of a- and δ-Tocopherols as Natural Antioxidants in the Stabilization of Sunflower Oil and Olive Pomace Oil during Storage Conditions. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2023; 24: 1113
9. Marshman J, Blay-Palmer A, Landman K. Anthropocene Crisis: Climate Change, Pollinators, and Food Security. Environments. 2019; 6(2): 22
10.Gertz C, Aladedunye F, Mattäus B. Oxidation and structural decomposition of fats and oils at elevated temperatures. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2014; 116: 1457- 1466
11. Noon J, Mills TB, Norton IT. The use of natural antioxidants to combat lipid oxidation in O/W emulsions. J. Food Engineer. 2020; 281: DOI: org/10.1016/j. jfoodeng.2020.110006
12. Abeyrathne EDNS. Nam K, Ahn DU. Analytical Methods for Lipid Oxidation an Antioxidant Capacity in Food Systems. Antioxidants. 2021;10(10): DOI: 10.3390/ antiox10101587
13. Farooq S, Abdullah, Zhang H, Weiss J. A comprehensive review on polarity, partitioning, and interactions of phenolic antioxidants at oil-water interface of food emulsions. Compr. Rev. Food Sci. Food
Saf. 2021; 20:4250-4277
14. Villeneuve P, Bourlieu-Lacanal C, Durand E, Lecomte J, McClements DJ, Decker EA. Lipid oxidation in emulsions and bulk oils: a review of the importance of micelles. Crit. Rev. Food Sci. Nut. 2021: DOI: 10.1080/10408398.2021.2006138
15. Evonik. Product Data Sheet dermofeel® GSC SG. 2020
16. Evonik. Product Data Sheet dermofeel® Toco 70 non GMO. 2020
17. Evonik. Product Data Sheet dermofeel® TocoBalance. 2020
18. Kancheva VD, Kasaikina, OT. Lipid oxidation in homogeneous and micro- heterogeneous media in presence of prooxidants, antioxidants, and surfactants, in: Lipid Peroxidation. Catala A (ed). In Tech. Open Access Publ. Rijeka, Croatia, 2012, pp. 31–62
19. Yi BR, Kim MJ, Lee JH. Oxidative stability of oil-in-water emulsions with a-tocopherol, charged emulsifier, and different oxidative stress. Food Sci. Biotechnol. 2018; 27(6): 1571-1578
20.Yoshida Y, Tsuchiya J, Niki E. Interaction of
a-tocopherol with copper and its effect on lipid peroxidation. Biochem. Biophys. Acta. 1994;1200(2): 85–92
21. Bayram I, Decker EA. Underlying mechanisms of synergistic antioxidant interactions during lipid oxidation. Trends Food Sci. Technol. 2023; 133: 219-130
22.Evonik. Product Data Sheet dermofeel® AP MB. 2020
23.Inchingolo R, Bayram I, Uluata S, Sezer Kiralan S, Rodriguez-Estrada T, McClements DJ, Decker EA. Ability of Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS) Micelles to Increase the Antioxidant Activity of a-Tocopherol. J. Agric. Food Chem. 2021; 69: 5702-5708
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