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58 PRODUCT PROTECTION


such as phenolic compounds, brings more individuality and has the potential to positively influence and support other antimicrobial and antioxidant reactants, it increases the risk of certain side reactions that may have a negative impact on the cosmetic product. The use of cosmetic raw materials such as antioxidants and oils from natural sources therefore requires much more careful and specific planning in terms of functionality and sustainability.3,9 In summary, formulators face new


challenges in replacing established but non-natural antioxidants with more natural alternatives such as tocopherols. As an expert in the field of product protection, Evonik has developed a unique method to support formulators with evidence-based recommendations for the use of natural antioxidant alternatives.


Supporting the formulation process Evonik has developed an oxidative stability test method tailored to the needs of cosmetic formulators. The method is designed to help formulators develop the optimal antioxidant protection concept for their individual cosmetic product. It works for all types of cosmetic formulations and is based on measuring the oxygen consumption of a formulation under standardized conditions that reflect the relevant lifecycle conditions of cosmetics.


Existing methods are capable of determining


the oxidation stability of natural oils, but in the case of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, they do not adequately reflect the oxidation- relevant interactions under realistic lifecycle conditions. Often the physical conditions do not match


the storage conditions of the product. High temperatures can easily lead to destruction of the emulsion and even evaporation of the water phase. As a result, system-related oxidation effects in the water phase or at the oil-water interface cannot be reliably investigated.10 Many methods reduce the complex


oxidation process to a single value at a given time (e.g. peroxide value, ‘POV’) or limit the measurement to the detection of a small subset of all possible oxidation products.11,12 The newly developed Evonik method, based on oxygen consumption measurement, overcomes these limitations by allowing the oxidation process to be studied continuously over time. It measures the molecular oxygen consumption of the formulation as oxygen is both the main driver of oxidation and can simultaneously be used as a measure to quantify the overall process. During the measurement, the structural


integrity of the formulation sample is maintained, making structure-dependent effects and interactions in the system detectable. Furthermore, the entire oxidation process is documented, allowing the determination of the basic background oxidation rate of a system as well as the temporal tipping point (point of oxygen decline, ‘POD’) of the antioxidant protective system.


PERSONAL CARE May 2023


TABLE 1: O/W EMULSION A Phase Ingredients


A Deionized Water Glycerin 99.5%, Ph. Eur.


A1 Xanthan Gum FEDCS-PC B Dermofeel GSC SG


Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Sunflower Oil


Tego Alkanol 1618 MB C Dermosoft OMP


INCI (EU) Aqua


Glycerin Xanthan Gum


Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Cetearyl Alcohol


Dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO* Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil


Methylpropanediol; Caprylyl Glycol; Phenylpropanol


Suppliers: 1. Cremer Oleo 2. Jungbunzlauer 3. Evonik 4. diverse


Table 1: O/W Emulsion A. Oil-in-water emulsion contains a water phase (A/A1), an oil phase (B), and an interphase with the emulsifier DF GSC SG. *In some experiments DF Toco 70 non GMO was exchanged for DF TocoBalance or 0.2% DF AP MB


TABLE 2: O/W EMULSION B Phase Ingredients


A Deionized Water Glycerin 99.5%


B


Distearyldimonium Chloride; Aqua


ABIL 350


TEGO Alkanol 1618 MB TEGOSOFT OS Sunflower Oil


Suppliers: 1. Evonik


C Dermosoft OMP 2. diverse


INCI (EU) Aqua


Glycerin


Distearyldimonium Chloride; Aqua Dimethicone


Cetyl Alcohol Ethylhexyl Strearate Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO* Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil


Methylpropanediol; Caprylyl Glycol; Phenylpropanol


Supplier w/w (%) 68.20 7.00


2 1 1


1 1


2 1


1


4.50 0.50


3.50 2.00 15.00 0.50


3.00


Table 2: O/W Emulsion B. Oil-in-water emulsion contains a water phase (A), an oil phase (B), and an interphase with the emulsifier distearyldimonium chloride. *In some experiments DF Toco 70 non GMO was exchanged for DF TocoBalance or 0.2% DF AP MB


The ‘oxidation stability value’ calculated


from the totality of all relevant parameters, provides accurate information on the system- dependent effects of antioxidants. This allows interactions and synergies between raw materials to be discovered, ultimately helping to optimize ingredient selection. For a complete picture, it can be combined with methods that focus on primary or secondary oxidation products. With this holistic oxidation test method, Evonik aims to support the efficient selection of the optimal natural antioxidant system for highly protected, sustainable cosmetics.


Factors influencing the product oxidation process Product oxidation is a complex chemical reaction involving multiple pathways and a variety of molecules such as unsaturated fats, antioxidants, prooxidants, metal ions, radicals and photosensitizers, to name a few. In addition, the oxidation process varies


greatly depending on the surrounding medium. For example, the oxidation potential


differs between bulk oil and emulsions. The susceptibility of emulsions to oxidation depends on the nature and content of the incorporated oils. The rate of oxidative degradation is


influenced by all three phases of the emulsion – water, oil and interphase. Surface-active molecules such as emulsifiers and surfactants have a major influence on oxidation kinetics. The association with surface-active


molecules and emulsifiers can determine the distribution of the antioxidants in the system.13


For example, in the presence of


reactive antioxidants, anionic emulsifiers attract positively-charged transition metals in the aqueous phase, which can accelerate oxidation. In contrast, positively-charged emulsifiers


can displace these metals from the interphase and help to slow down the oxidation rate in emulsions. In addition, other surface- active components such as free fatty acids, glycerides, sterols, and phospholipids can also improve or worsen antioxidant efficacy.14 With the selection of the emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers, wetting agents and other


www.personalcaremagazine.com


Supplier w/w (%) 64.00 5.00 0.30 3.50 2.00 15.00 2.50 0.50


1


2 3 3 4 3 3


3 3.00


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