SUN CARE
TABLE 1: JAPANESE COSMETIC INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION PA LABELLING SCHEME
PA Value 2 to <4 4 to <8 8 to <16 >16
UVA-PF Protection Grade PA+
PA++ PA+++ PA++++
with the FDA and are regulated by a monograph for ‘Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-The- Counter Human Use’. To comply with the monograph, sunscreen
products must be tested according to the FDA guidelines for SPF. Products with an SPF of at least 15 can also carry a broad-spectrum label for UVA and UVB protection if they fulfil the critical wavelength (cw) criterion of at least 370nm. In 2019, the FDA drafted an update of the
monograph and proposed a maximum SPF level as well as strengthening the UVA protection under the broad-spectrum claim.
APAC Sunscreen classifications and registration requirements vary considerably from country to country in this region. In Japan, for example, sunscreen products are classified as cosmetics, in China they are regulated as ‘Special Use Cosmetics’ and in Korea they come under the classification of ‘Functional Cosmetics’. However, most of these countries use the
Post exposure mean UVA:UVB ratio
TABLE 2: BOOTS STAR RATING SYSTEM CLASSIFICATION 0.0-0.59
0.0-0.56 0.57-0.75 0.76-0.85
No rating No rating No rating
0.86 and over No rating
same system for evaluating UVA protection, namely, the PA (Protection against UVA), index which was initially developed by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA). It involves in vivo testing and resembles the way SPF is measured. Under this system, sunscreen products are
designated a PA rating according to the level of protection they provide against UVA rays. In vivo ISO 24442 is used for UVA-PF assessment and according to the protection levels, Table 1 shows the respective labelling in accordance with JCIA is applied.
Industry initiatives on measuring UVA protection One of the first European measurement systems for testing and labelling UVA protection was a proprietary method developed and introduced by Boots in the UK, where it is still commonly used.3 It is known as the Boots Star Rating system and compares the initial in vitro UVA:UVB
Initial mean UVA:UVB ratio 0.6-0.79
No rating *** *** ***
0.8-0.89
No rating ***
**** ****
0.9 and over No rating ***
**** *****
ratio to the post exposure UVA:UVB ratio to determine the star rating. Table 2 shows a summary of the star rating classification. A summary of UVA standards in different
regions and their associated UVA protection claims is presented in the table in Table 3.
Benefits of UVA protection UV exposure is thought to be responsible for 80% of visible signs of facial skin ageing.4 Consumer studies also suggest that many people are concerned about the impact of sun exposure on the face,5
facial UV protection is currently quite low. In 2022, we conducted a review of
scientific studies on facial care benefits associated with UV protection beyond the most obvious one of preventing sunburn.6 Based on this review, we found compelling evidence to suggest that UVA filters have an important role to play in preventing signs of photoageing, and in reducing the effects of pigmentation disorders.
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even if daily use of
www.personalcaremagazine.com
May 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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