UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
the skin’s acid mantle as the body’s first line of defense to inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria and encourage the growth of skin- healthy microflora. The acid mantle is also easily disrupted by daily activities, such as washing, shaving and exposure to abrasion. Surfactants in soaps and other personal care or home care products can also disturb the acid mantle by raising the pH on the skin surface, which may result in a dry, uncomfortable feeling. Pectin can be utilized to help control pH
levels in skincare products and preserve skin’s acid mantle. To prove the effect of pectin, CP Kelco conducted in vivo clinical studies of its upcycled ingredient, GENU® pHresh Pectin. This pectin is upcycled from the pith, the stringy white part between the citrus peel and the fruit. Discarded citrus peels are an abundant byproduct of the juice industry so the raw material source is reliable. What is remarkable about this pectin is its
ability to buffer the skin’s natural pH and the speed at which it can adjust skin pH. Unlike a citric acid, which could penetrate the skin and cause irritation, this pectin is a long-chain polysaccharide, making it exceptionally mild. To measure the effect of adjusting skin pH,
measurements were conducted on the forearms of 21 subjects for seven hours after soap cleansing, using a control lotion with no pectin and a lotion containing its pectin product. The reference data set is a skin condition with no lotion applied. A comfortable, natural pH is in the range of 5.7. After washing, skin pH increases to roughly 7.2.
Reference ■ Control ■ Pectin Solution ■ Pectin Lotion ■
7.5 7
6.5 6
5.5 5
0 90 190 Time (min)
Figure 4: Combined results of different in vivo measurements over time showing the buffering effect of pectin on skin pH
If left to adjust on its own, the skin slowly
begins to return to its normal pH. As shown in Figure 4, using a lotion with pectin can shorten the time it takes to bring skin into balance and sustain this level for an extended period of time. A statistically significant decrease of evolution of the cutaneous pH after the pectin lotion was observed, thus showing a favourable effect on the skin. CP Kelco also conducted a trans-epidermal
water loss (TEWL) test to determine the ability of pectin to moisturize the skin. The results showed a statistically significant decrease in TEWL through an improvement of moisture retention as compared to a placebo (Figure 5).
Beyond food waste: getting creative with ingredients When it comes to discarded materials, there is still much to discover. Manufacturers are
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www.personalcaremagazine.com
May 2023 PERSONAL CARE
pH
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