ANTI-POLLUTION
Sclerotium gum shield - biopolymer protection
Cyril Lemoine, Dominique Clio, Aude Legrand – Cargill Beauty ABSTRACT
The Covid-19 era ushered in a fascination with skin health and increased awareness of the importance of protecting it from external aggressors. Air pollutants such as particulate matter (PM, most commonly PM2.5 and PM10), heavy metals, and ozone are believed to induce or exacerbate a range of skin conditions, such as ageing and sensitive skin. Such situations inspired Cargill Beauty to explore the capacity of Cargill’s Actigum™ range, made from 100% renewable feedstocks and readily biodegradable, to protect the skin from these aggressors. The film forms a thin and homogeneous layer over the skin which provides a shield from pollution dust and helps with its removability. The quality of the film also provides a decrease in skin roughness to bring premium smooth sensory.
The Covid-19 era ushered in a fascination with skin health and increased awareness of the importance of protecting it from external aggressors. Data shows that only 20% of skin ageing is induced by genetics, and the remaining 80% is linked to external aggressors caused by environment and lifestyle factors (Figure 1).1 The concern of pollution on health and
beauty is constantly increasing worldwide due to the rise of environmental issues. The World Health Organization (WHO) report from 2016 states that over three million people die annually due to pollution, and about 90% of people live in an area that does not comply with the WHO Air Quality Guidelines.2 As the largest organ in the body, human
skin is constantly exposed to harmful compounds existing in the surrounding environment as the first-line barrier. Air pollutants are believed to induce or exacerbate a range of skin conditions, such as ageing, sensitive skin, inflammatory diseases (atopic dermatitis and psoriasis), acne, hair loss, and even skin cancers. The most common air pollutants are mostly
outdoor pollutants, including polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), volatile organic compounds (VOCs), particulate matter
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Holistic beauty wheel
(PM, most commonly PM2.5 and PM10), and gaseous pollutants, such as carbon monoxide (CO), nitric oxides (NOx), sulfur oxide (SO2 ozone (O3), and heavy metals.3
),
Consumers are ever more concerned about the impact of these external aggressors and are looking for ways to protect their skin and maintain skin health. In the US, 45% of consumers expect their facial skin care routine
to protect their skin from environment; 83% of Italian consumers are very or somewhat concerned about PM2.5 among pollutant types; and 54% of Brazilian facial care users consider protecting skin against external aggressors important when purchasing facial skincare.4
With a growing number of people suffering
from sensitive skin issues coupled with a rising demand for clean beauty trends, consumers are expecting more from their daily cream than ever. This means clean formulas and protection against external factors such as pollution. To answer to the worry of consumers on
pollution with a nature-derived solution, Cargill Beauty has screened the film properties of different biobased polymers, sorting out sclerotium gum as most relevant. The quality of the film on the skin from the
sclerotium gum - Actigum CS11 QD - showed multiple benefits which include sensorial and skin protection. The film is thin and homogenous which will bring smoothness and it is a champion on providing a shield to the skin from air pollutants. The robust tests to substantiate the
property of smoothness include film morphology analysis by SEM-FEG, skin
May 2023 PERSONAL CARE
29
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