76 WATERLESS FORMULATION While many natural extracts and essential
oils are known for a single benefit, Indian sandalwood oil is a multifunctional ingredient. The active ingredient can achieve multiple benefits and, in addition to its therapeutic benefits, the oil is renowned for its olfactory characteristics, having a soft, warm, and woody odour. The essential oil captures the essence of the tree itself being hearty, grounding, and complex. It has distinctive aromatic characteristics that are irreplicable. As a result of this scent, the oil has found its way into many applications including cosmetics, skincare, perfumery, and aromatherapy. Delivering benefits across multiple dimensions makes the ancient wellbeing ingredient a perfect candidate for the waterless beauty trend. A recent study looking into Chinese
millennial skincare consumers found that 72% of respondents would be likely to purchase a product that smelt like sandalwood.2 Additionally, 86% were found to consider purchasing a premium skincare product that uses sandalwood oil as an active ingredient after learning about its multifunctional skin benefits. Over recent years, the personal care and
beauty industries have experienced a return to more traditional formulations in line with the increased consumer demand for safer and naturally derived ingredients within their products. Public awareness of this knowledge continues to become more accessible and accepted, causing both new and existing brands to re-evaluate their formulations and shift accordingly.
Finding new ways to take advantage of the latest trends Quintis recently launched its Indian Sandalwood Extra Fine Powder. An ancient ingredient rediscovered, Indian Sandalwood Extra Fine Powder is an innovation in skincare made from the heartwood of sustainably and ethically grown Indian sandalwood trees. Driven by the determination to introduce
an innovative ingredient that aligns with the growing Ayurvedic beauty trend as well as waterless and solid formulations, Quintis’s heartwood powder is a natural multifunctional ingredient.
With public awareness and the demand for
naturally derived ingredients and formulations continuing to grow, Quintis wanted to bring a product to market that could serve as a clean alternative for beauty and personal care brands wanting to explore alternatives to essential oils. The versatile and sustainably sourced
ingredient is hypoallergenic and ideal for sensitive skin. Traditionally used in Ayurveda to soothe and brighten the skin it provides a powdery, light, and soft skin feel and a beautiful texture to formulations due to the extra-fine particle size. The current ‘Ayurveda Pharmacopoeia of
India’ lists Indian sandalwood in powder form for several topical applications, especially for skin calming, body odour, acne, melasma and improved skin brightening.3
PERSONAL CARE May 2023 Recent preliminary
tests on human skin indicate that the powder can visibly impart the below cosmetic benefits to topical formulations, as listed below. ■ An oil-absorbing, matte powder (mattifying-effect): The use of micro free extra fine powder helps to reduce the glossiness on the skin caused by oil containing formulations either by oil absorption or light scattering effect. This powder can be used as a cosmetic ingredient in both makeup and skin care products to give a matte finish. ■ Effectively control the glossiness and even out skin tone (skin tone evenness): The surface glossiness of some skin-care products may increase the appearance of dark spots and dullness, causing an increase in skin discoloration. Adding micro-free extra fine powder in the formulations was found to reduce this discoloration when applied to the gel base, giving a radiant finish. This allows the product to reduce discoloration without compromising the luxurious finish of the surface. ■ Helps to reduce in wrinkles and fine lines: Micro free extra-fine sandalwood power has an immediate and significant reduction in both the number and length fine lines and wrinkles. This is achieved through the light scattering and slight construction effect on smooth muscle just below the surface of the skin. ■ Rich sandalwood aroma: The world- famous, sweet, creamy, and woody fragrance of Indian sandalwood is known for its long- lasting scent. It has been used for centuries to create fragrances as it is rich in history and character. This unique aroma is used in ayurveda for its soothing and calming properties. The powder is ideal for inclusion in a
range of formulations like masks, deodorants, lotions, and moisturisers. It also provides stability to creams and lotions by acting as a Pickering’s emulsifier. The innovative powder contains 3% of
Indian sandalwood oil, one of the world’s most active ancient ingredients that has proven to be anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase, while also having anti-MMP1 properties.
Quintis champions the ethical, sustainable,
and consistent supply of Indian sandalwood, and we urge formulators to look at how this innovative powder can add value to, or augment, the benefits of their new products – particularly in the context of waterless beauty formulations.
Indian sandalwood and enhancing overall skin health Indian sandalwood oil is widely recognised for its scent in fragrance, however its powerful role as an active beauty ingredient is only scratching the surface of what it can truly offer as a single ingredient, or as a complement to other skincare ingredients. Research into the pharmacological effects
of Indian sandalwood has been extensive in recent years. Quintis recently commissioned first of its kind in vitro and in vivo research into the efficacy of Indian sandalwood oil and its effect on the skin, which is proving to be the most thorough insight into the oil’s antioxidant and anti-collagenase properties to date. These results are driving demand for the ingredient even further, proving the importance of a resilient and sustainable supply. In vitro cellular research released in 2021
found that Indian sandalwood oil is a more potent antioxidant than the known lipophilic antioxidant vitamin E (alpha tocopherol).4 In the study, skin cells were exposed to a source of solar blue light, and those cells produced reactive oxygen species, which begins a cascade of reactions detrimental to healthy skin. However, when the cell cultures were
treated with sandalwood oil, production of reactive oxygen species reduced by up to 76%. This was measured against vitamin E with sandalwood oil performing 30-40% better at a recorded reduction.1 The study also found that Indian
sandalwood oil is capable of significantly decreasing the damage to collagen in skin tissues caused by stressors such as blue light from solar, and pollution from cigarette smoke. In vivo clinical research released in 2022,5 has reinforced the cellular study findings
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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