IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2023 REVIEW


Barcelona buzzes as in-cos gets back to its best


Tim Probert - Editor, Personal Care Global


The 2023 edition of in-cosmetics Global goes down as a considerable success, not only in terms of visitor and exhibitor numbers but also the general feelgood buzz around the show. Many visitors commented to me on how much they enjoyed Barcelona and how they would like the show to return to Catalonia on a regular basis.


The good food, weather and compact size of


the city made a visit to Barcelona in late March highly congenial, and it hard to disagree with those who would prefer in-cosmetics Global to be located there than other, colder European cities. Overall, it felt like the first fully post-pandemic


in-cosmetics Global, with a welcome return of many Asian firms among the 900-plus exhibitors. The result was 10,799 attendees, up 33% on the 8,091 visitors to the Paris show last year. Some 72% of attendees joined the event from


abroad – up from 57% in 2022 – from over 118 countries. Of those, 12% travelled from Asia- Pacific – compared to 6% in 2022 - with visitors hailing from South Korea, China, India and Japan.


Key themes I spent much of my time chatting with personal care ingredient producers about their latest products and a few key themes cropped up. It is clear many companies are spending ever


more time and money on testing as clients and consumers want more data to back up claims and efficacy, and this is likely to offer some added value opportunities for suppliers. Another theme was the unstoppable


rise of neurocosmetics, dermocosmetics, neutroceuticals and the wellbeing trend as consumers demand products that make them feel good as well as look good. This may well throw up some interesting


regulatory issues and I intend to explore this in future issues of Personal Care Global. Some of the larger ingredient suppliers were


keen to stress their offer as being above the mere supply of cosmetic chemicals. Evonik, for example, highlighted an increasing number of challenges relating to the rise of natural ingredients and oxidation protection, and how formulators require profound expertise to master them.


The oxidation process within cosmetic


formulations is poorly understood so Evonik has developed evidence-based support to optimise the shelf life of products. This is done by discovering the optimal natural antioxidant and unlocking synergies in a formulation.


www.personalcaremagazine.com IMCD The German company also highlighted its


new Service Solutions unit that provides small and medium-sized companies with support to realize their personal care products. Another German giant, BASF, unveiled its


enhanced digital service offering that includes Surfactant Navigator, which provides customers with suggestions for surfactant mixtures based on systematic experiments and modeling algorithms, as well as SFA Formulator to design liquid rinse-off formulations. These online tools are integrated with D’lite,


BASF’s impressive digital subscription service that offers a vast amount of industry-wide data on ingredients, consumer products and personal care brands, as well as market analysis and real- time consumer insight. Partnering with Mintel


and Brandwatch, the idea is to help customers to identify the right ingredients and product offering. Ingredient distributors are also getting in on


the act with enhanced service offerings. IMCD gave visitors a flavour of its newly opened Beauty Studio in Paris, which allows beauty brands to receive one-to-one consultations and personalised formulation set-ups completed within a 90-minute timeframe.


A feast of sustainable ingredient launches Yet the main focus of the in-cosmetics Global show floor is, of course, new ingredient launches and Barcelona did not disappoint. Many companies took the opportunity to highlight sustainability and natural ingredients, perhaps none more so than Ashland, which dramatically brought to life its new ingredients during a live event where professional models wore apparel donned in crocuses, coconuts, rosewood, raspberries and more. The new products include Phyteq raspberry


one multifunctional, Liftyl biofunctional made from upcycling wood chips, Softhance mr conditioning agent, Styleze es-dura plant-based hair styler, Saffragyl oral care biofunctional, Antaron soja glyceride nature-derived film


May 2023 PERSONAL CARE


21


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