ANTI-POLLUTION
amount of particle remaining on the pre- treated area versus the untreated skin explant after blowing air and rinsing with water. The amount is calculated by image analysis from SEM-FEG coupled with EDX. The skin explant pre-treated with a 1% gel
of sclerotium gum showed a decrease on the amount of pollutant by 44% (p<0.05) (Figure 5). The film of sclerotium gum protected the skin and eased the removability of the particles.
3. Shield film of sclerotium gum decreasing adhesion of dust particles on forearm The ease of removability was evaluated by image analysis of the surface of the skin covered by environmental dust (µm2). The skin treated with sclerotium gum at 0.6% or 1% formed a film, which helped with the removability of the dust (Figure 6). This showed a very statistically significant
(p<0,001) reduction of environmental test dust compared to the untreated area after cleansing by 87% and 90% for the gels at 1% and 0.6%, respectively (Figure 7). When compared to the untreated before
cleansing, the film of sclerotium gum showed that less than 3% of dust remained on the skin after cleansing. The sclerotium gum acts as a shield from pollution which helps with the removal of dust.
4. Smoothing effect of sclerotium gum on skin explant To test the smoothness effect of sclerotium gum, the evolution of roughness, i.e. the decrease of peaks and microfolds, was evaluated by image analysis. The effect of the 1% sclerotium gum film improved very significantly (p>0,001) the skin smoothness by 23%** compared to the skin surface before application (Figure 8).
5. Smoothing effect of sclerotium gum perceived by consumers The sclerotium gum showed rather close sensoriality profile compared to a synthetic polymer used at iso equivalent viscosities (Figure 9). Even though the emulsion with the synthetic polymer was slightly easier to spread (average score: 7.76 out of 10), the emulsion with sclerotium gum was perceived as easy to spread during the application (average score: 7.1 out of 10). The sclerotium gum improved the
BEFORE CLEANING UNTREATED UNTREATED SEM IMAGE Figure 4: Film morphology of 1% sclerotium gum gel: thin and homogeneous film WITHOUT PRODUCT WITH ACTIGUM CS 11 QD UNTREATED TREATED WITH 1% ACTIGUM CS11 QD
31
-44%*
Removal of PM2.5 after rinsing
Figure 5: Easier removability of PM 2.5 pollutant with Actigum CS11 QD. n= 4; *p<0.05
smoothness two minuites after application compared to the emulsion with the synthetic polymer. This smoothness also increased compared to just after application.
Discussion and perspective Due to a deterioration of our environment and the deleterious skin effects of pollution such as ageing, acne or sensitive skin, consumers are looking for highly effective solutions against pollution to protect their skin. Suppliers are still looking for more
sustainable solutions to satisfy consumer needs. Cargill Beauty, experts on nature- derived materials, screened polymers to
AFTER CLEANING 1% ACTIGUM CS11 QD 0.6% ACTIGUM CS11 QD SEM IMAGE
identify the best anti-adhesion film. Cargill’s Actigum range from 100% renewable feedstocks, is readily biodegradable and COSMOS approved and is well known for bringing rheology modification with high sensoriality. Exploring even further into the properties
of the sclerotium gum film, studies have now proven anti-pollution behavior through different ex vivo and in vivo test. The film of the natural polymer at 1% on skin explants is very homogeneous and has the ability to create a shield on skin. This film then helps with removability
of pollutant particles or dust. Up to 97% of environmental pollution dust (including PM
25000 20000 15000 10000 5000 0
-87% ***
Untreated after
Figure 6: Less dust left on pre-treated skin with 0.6% and 1% of sclerotium gum
www.personalcaremagazine.com
1% Actigum CS 11 QD_after
***
0.6% Actigum CS 11 QD_after
Figure 7: Cleansing performance of skin surface dust with water. *** n=22; p<0,001
May 2023 PERSONAL CARE
-90%
SEM-FEG* STRATUM CORNEUM SURFACE
Coverage of the skin surface with environmental test dust (um2
)
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