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IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2023 REVIEW
former, Sensiva go natural sensitive skin multifunctional, and Puraloe aloe vera. BASF took the wraps off Kerasylium, a plant-
based alternative ingredient to animal keratin for hair care. Kerasylium is rich in peptides exhibiting an amino acid composition similar to that of keratin, a protein naturally present in the hair, to repair damage and to protect against daily aggressions. The hair care active is the result of upcycling
milk thistle (Silybum marianum) seed cake, a by- product of milk thistle oil production. The milk thistle used is grown in France for oil production and is based on a traceable and sustainable supply chain. Mibelle Biochemistry launched TiMOOD,
a skincare ingredient designed to positively influence mood and emotional wellbeing. Based on timut pepper, a spice plant from the Himalayas, the Swiss firm says TiMOOD can improve neuronal function in the skin and thereby increase skin homogeneity. The Swiss company’s latest launch has
been shown to improve emotional wellbeing in stressed volunteers leading to a more relaxed state. Benefits of TiMOOD are said to include: protection of neurons from ageing, supporting healthy and even skin complexion, improved wellbeing under stress, and stimulations of the skin-brain connection. The event’s premium sponsor, KSM-66
Ashwagandha, showcased its branded, full- spectrum ashwagandha extract for skincare formulations. Produced using a unique proprietary extraction process based on ‘green chemistry’ principles, attendees were able to discover how the company holistically extracts all of the root essence while preserving its natural healing potency.
Swiss outfit Omya focused on waterless solutions made of natural and sustainable ingredients as a result of the Swiss company’s R&D team developing innovative anhydrous formulations with advanced minerals such as Omyaskin and Omyadent particles. The resulting prototypes are easy to disperse and apply for an innovative sensorial experience. Also on show were Cosmospheres, a visually appealing, natural ingredient solution that concentrates actives and ensures their release during application. The cellulosic beads may keep liquid or powdered actives contained in colourful spheres suspended in all sorts of water containing products. Another Swiss firm, Clariant, unveiled
Beracare CBA, a skincare active consisting of a complex blend of Amazon oils to produce a natural alternative to cannabidiol. Beracare CBA combines copaiba oil with passion fruit oil, both of which are harvested sustainably, to soothe sensitive skin. The active provides a CBD-like effect by
targeting the skin’s endocannabinoid system, activating the CB2 receptors. This helps increase
the production of β-endorphin, creating a superior soothing effect compared to CBD. LipoTrue launched two new active
ingredients: V/WA and Poptide. V/WA relaxes expression wrinkles acting along the three steps of neuromuscular communication: neuritogenesis & neuronal migration, synaptic vesicles recycling and muscle contraction. Obtained from the fermentation of a newly
identified Alteromonas species: Alteromonas lipotrueae, V/WA relaxes expression wrinkles acting along the three steps of neuromuscular communication: neuritogenesis & neuronal migration, synaptic vesicles recycling and muscle contraction. Meanwhile, Poptide is a cyclic peptide that organizes skintropy improving protein folding and improving the wrinkle daily fluctuation making the skin pop all day long. DSM launched Parsol DHHB (INCI:
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), a UVA filter that also contributes SPF protection. It is compatible with all UVB filters on the market, and is compatible with zinc oxide and iron oxides, which makes it fit for purpose in hybrid formulations. Gattefossé unleashed its multifunctional
plant-based O/W emulsifier, Emulium Dermolea MB, which is said to reduce skin stress and brings long-term soothing due to its unique lipidic composition rich in sterols and triterpenes. The new product was developed using Gattefossé’s expertise in wax butter technology and is composed of candelilla, rice bran, and jojoba waxes. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics unveiled two
complementary natural active ingredients to improve nighttime skin recovery. Immunight and Regenight act with a unique dual mechanism of action targeting the improvement of sleep quality while having a direct topical action. Regenight boosts the expression of
melatonin-associated genes and restores the antioxidant capacity to improve nighttime skin regeneration and daily damage repair for rejuvenated, revitalized healthier-looking
PERSONAL CARE May 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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