SUN CARE
Conclusion Bis-octyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate/propanediol copolymer (BODP) is a multifunctional naturally derived polyester designed specifically for providing dispersibility and film formation in inorganic sunscreen formulations. As seen in the microscope images, BODP
has the ability of decreasing agglomeration size in C8-10 triglyceride for both TiO2
and ZnO.
This leads to less whitening and more uniform deposition of the particles on the skin. BODP’s ability to create a hydrophobic coating on the particle lead to an unexpected performance when applying sunscreens onto wet skin. The ability to apply inorganic sunscreen
products in a uniform, less whitening manner, providing an easy- to-use product is very impotant to consumers, particulary to consumers reapplication during outdoor activities. BODP also has the ability to provide film
formation for inorganic actives. A formulation containing both TiO2
and ZnO was prepared
and tested for in vivo SPF. The three subject test showed an average static SPF of 39.9 and an average SPF after the 80-minute water immersion of 31.0. With this result, the formulation would be considered to be very water resistant (VWR). Driven by consumer demands in the sun
care market shifting to green raw materials, improved aesthetics, and performance continues to be extremely important. Bis-octyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate/propanediol copolymer is synthesized from naturally based raw materials, but also provides two different performances in the finished product. By utilizing the BODP as a dispersant and film
former, it allows for use of fewer ingredients in the finished product while supporting the claim for natural water resistance.
Author acknowledgements TiO2
dispersions were prepared by Rigano
Laboratories Industrial Consulting & Research of Milan, Italy. The sunscreen formulation was prepared by Comercial Química Massó and Saequim Especialidades of Barcelona, Spain.
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Average COMMERCIAL ZnO APPLIED TO WET SKIN
22.1 39.7 57.9 39.9
TRIGLYCERIDE, POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID, ALUMINUM STEARATE, AND ALUMINA Phase Ingredients / INCI
65 DISPERSION CONTAINING CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC
Concentration (%) 24.60 3.20 15.80 22.60 4.90 1.10
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ZnO FORMULATION WITH BODP
Figure 3: Optical images of a commercial sunscreen containing ZnO and one utilizing BODP
www.personalcaremagazine.com May 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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