WATERLESS FORMULATION
Waterless formulations: the heart of sustainability
Ana Prieto - Quintis Sandalwood
As sustainability continues to be a major focus for the beauty and cosmetic industry, many companies have made it their mission to significantly decrease water consumption in an effort to preserve the vital natural resource. At the same time, with 1.8 billion people
globally said to live in countries or regions with water scarcity by 2025,1
consumers
are becoming increasingly eco-conscious. As a result, more and more brands are wanting to innovate to create more sustainable products. For decades, water has been a key
ingredient used in formulating beauty and cosmetics products, but in recent years waterless formulations have continued to gain more momentum in the market as they increase the efficacy of the product. The waterless beauty trend relates to products that are anhydrous – or formulated without water - and is a trend that is reshaping the future of sustainability. Driven by a combination of innovations originating from Korean skincare, ethical concerns, and new developments in packaging, waterless beauty products replace the water component of the formulation with various oils, waxes, butters, and/or oil-soluble actives. While waterless beauty products are not
a novel concept, the new wave of anhydrous beauty products comes in a variety of forms including powders, bars, sheets, and sticks. These products are typically more concentrated and less bacteria-prone than their water-based counterparts. They tend to contain higher concentrations of active ingredients since they are not diluted, and importantly support consumer demands for zero-waste options to minimise both water usage and post-consumer packaging waste. Due to their higher concentration, these
products typically have less total volume, resulting in lighter and smaller packaging and therefore producing less waste and carbon emissions from the transportation. While these products are formulated without water, this does not necessarily mean water was not used to create it, so those brands playing an active role in trying to reduce their water usage in the process will only contribute to a more sustainable global environment. As the circular beauty trend continues to
gain impetus in the beauty and cosmetics industry, beauty products sans water is a real change within the industry and there is
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potential for them to flourish and become the dominant format in time.
Playing into the waterless beauty trend Ingredient producers that are committed to sustainable environmental practices can help brands make strides and rise in new innovations using waterless formulations to meet the demands of both consumers and the trends of the industry. Quintis Sandalwood is one such
producer, offering the world’s largest supply of plantation-grown Indian sandalwood (Santalum album). Through over 20 years of careful cultivation, research, and innovation, Quintis has established itself as the global leader in ethical and traceable sandalwood. Quintis manages an expansive
12,000-hectare estate where more than five million Indian sandalwood trees thrive and has built an enduring legacy for its commitment to the sustainable growing, management and harvesting of Indian sandalwood. As an example of the increasing emphasis placed on sustainability, Quintis has saved 42 million litres of scheme water since installing its water recycling and rainwater harvesting systems. Indian sandalwood oil is an anhydrous
ingredient that mixes well with lipophilic matrices, easily encapsulated to various powder matrices, and easily emulsified with a hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) value > 10.
Active ingredients are less diluted and remain more stable in anhydrous matrices. Due to this, the characteristics of Indian sandalwood are suitable to deliver multifaceted benefits more potently in waterless formulations. From its alluring scent to its skin benefits
through its calming properties, Indian sandalwood is a versatile ingredient for holistic cosmetics applications so manufacturers or brands that align with this can find a great ingredient for formulations. Over the years, modern science and
research has shown that Indian sandalwood oil is a multifunctional ingredient with a plethora of cosmetic and wellness claims to its name that provides multiple benefits to a cosmetic preparation. While it is an excellent candidate to be a key active ingredient, it can work synergistically with other active ingredients in cosmetic formulations, going far beyond being just a wonderful scent in products. Sandalwood’s main aromatic components,
also known as sesquiterpenes, are alpha- santalol and beta-santalol. Indian sandalwood oil is an essential oil obtained by steam distillation of the aromatic heartwood of Santalum album. In Indian sandalwood, these compounds make up more than 70% of the oil, up to three times more than other sandalwood species. Due to the high presence of alpha and beta santalols, Indian sandalwood has been proven to calm the mind, and protect and nourish the skin1.
May 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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