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70 SUN CARE


Photoageing prevention As mentioned above, UVA radiation has a lower energy level than UVB but penetrates the skin more deeply. The damage it causes may not be noticeable at first but over the course of time, it accumulates and can lead to signs of photoageing such as fine lines and wrinkles. A large clinical study with over 900 study


volunteers found that indeed photoageing was reduced with the application of functional sun protection products.7 This trial found no detectable increase in skin


ageing over a 4.5-year period in a group that had applied broad-spectrum sunscreen daily. Subjects who had used sunscreen daily were also 24% less likely to show signs of increased skin ageing compared to subjects applying sunscreen on a more discretionary basis. The evidence from these studies strongly


suggests that regular – ideally every day - use of sunscreen incorporating UVA protection can prevent skin damage caused by lower intensity UV radiation and so help delay signs of photoageing.


Reducing the effects of pigmentation disorders Exposure to UV light can exacerbate the three main types of hyperpigmentation - age spots (solar lentigines), melasma and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). A 2020 review of clinical evidence


of sunscreen efficacy from nine studies established several key findings: pre-existing hyperpigmentation was shown to improve visibly in people of colour with regular application of broad-spectrum sunscreen over eight weeks; increased protection with UV and visible light broad-spectrum sunscreen prevented the development of melasma; and incidences of post laser PIH were reduced following application of broad-spectrum sunscreen.9 From the evidence in this review, we have


concluded that broad spectrum protection in sunscreens can help stabilise and improve melasma and PIH and so has an adjuvant role to play in therapy for these disorders.


Formulating with UVA protection in mind


With the scientific evidence showing that UVA filters can provide solutions to skincare concerns such as the formation of lines and wrinkles, or dark spots (hyperpigmentation), there is a convincing argument for making UVA protection an important part of daily facial care. However, as we know, sunscreens are only effective if people actually wear them and apply them correctly and in sufficient amounts. In one of our own surveys of 5600 consumers we found that, globally,


in eight countries,10


only 38% of respondents were using facial UV protection daily. Nevertheless, with a 2021 US survey finding that 90% of respondents were concerned about how sun exposure effects the face,5


there is clear potential in this market. To capitalise on this potential, we need to


consider ways of incorporating UVA protection into ‘multifunctional’ formulations consumers will use every day, such as moisturisers and colour cosmetics.


PERSONAL CARE May 2023


Normal skin


UVB Protecting Sunscreen


Broad Spectrum Sunscreen


TABLE 3: SUMMARY OF UVA STANDARDS AND ASSOCIATED UVA PROTECTION CLAIMS Region


Europe, ASEAN, Australia, South America


Method


UVA claim and conditions


ISO 24443 or ISO 24442


UVA-PF/SPF ≥1/3 and cw ≥370nm


UK


Boots star rating or ISO24443/24442


From three to five stars or UVA-PF/ SPF ≥1/3 and cw≥370nm


Of course, various technical considerations


come into play when developing sunscreens and multifunctional products that include UV protection: Which UV filters are permitted on a given market? Are these filters compatible – with each


other and all the other ingredients in the formulation? Are they enough photostable and effective? How do they impact a formulation’s sensory properties? And, in these eco-conscious times, what is the environmental impact of these filters?


Providing formulators with a broad UV filter portfolio To rise to all the technical challenges involved in delivering broad spectrum protection –whether in sunscreen or multifunctional products - formulators need as wide a choice of UV filters available as possible for their target markets. With this in mind, we are introducing a second UVA filter to our current portfolio. PARSOL DHHB is DSM’s own form of Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) and will be available alongside our Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (commercial name PARSOL 1789). DHHB is fit for purpose in many different


scenarios. It has good compatibility with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (PARSOL MCX), which is particularly relevant for regions, such as APAC, which often incorporate EHMC in their sun care formulations. It is also compatible with zinc oxide and


iron oxide. Therefore, DHHB can be used in hybrid formulations to add UVA protection in a broad range of applications. Moreover, with its good eco score and good solubility, DHHB is a suitable option for formulators who wish to develop future fit formulations while keeping the oil load low. Like DHHB, BMDBM is fit for purpose with


different UV filter combinations. One such combination is PARSOL EHT, PARSOL Shield and PARSOL 1789 (Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-


Japan ISO 24442 or JCIA


P+ (UVA-PF: 2-4) P++ (UVA-PF: 4-8) P+++ (UVA-PF: 8-16) P++++ (UVA-PF≥16)


USA


Final rule sunscreen monograph


Broad spectrum when cw≥370nm


Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane), which also enables future proof and environmentally friendly formulations. As the only globally approved UVA filter, BMDBM remains the UVA solution for sun protection products in the US. DSM’s PARSOL UV filter portfolio,


formulation expertise and regulatory support, enables formulators to create multifunctional sun protection products that meet both regulatory requirements and the needs of discerning consumers.


References 1. Surber C, Osterwalder U (eds). Challenges in Sun Protection. Curr. Probl. Dermatol. Basel, Karger. 2021, vol 55, pp 1–43


2. Commission Recommendation of 22 September 2006 on the efficacy of sunscreens and the claims made relating thereto. Official Journal of the European Union, L265/39. 26 September 2006


3. Boots Star Rating. https://cdnmedia.eurofins. com/apac/media/601375/boots-star.pdf


4. Flament et al. Effect of the sun on visible clinical signs of aging in Caucasian skin. Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol. 2013 Sep 27;6:221- 32. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S44686. eCollection 2013


5. The Benchmarking Company. Beauty By the Numbers, Here Comes the Sun Survey 2021.


6. Huang A, Schütz R, Klock J, Vollhard J. UV Filters – Exploring the Benefits beyond Sunburn Protection. SOFW Journal. 9/22 p. 22-25, vol. 148


7. Young et al. The Detrimental Effects of Daily Sub-Erythemal Exposure on Human Skin In Vivo Can Be Prevented by a Daily-Care Broad- Spectrum Sunscreen. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2007; 127, 975–978


8. Hughes et al. Sunscreen and Prevention of Skin aging: A randomized trial. Ann. Intern. Med. 2013; 158:781-790


9. Fatima et al. The role of sunscreen in melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Indian J. Dermatol. 2020; 65(1):5-10 10. DSM. Sun Survey 2018


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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