74 SURFACTANTS
investment and research. Instead of looking into more new blends or rare potential surfactants, the answer could be more familiar that previously thought. Traditionally, a secondary surfactant, betaine
does not have the properties to be a primary surfactant. However, an innovative, low-salt version of the product has been developed, which can be 35% active with less than 0.5% salt content. The product can be manufactured from either lauric fatty acid (Laurylamidopropyl Betaine) or distilled coconut fatty acid (Cocamidopropyl Betaine).
A solution for surfactants Low-Salt Betaine is a surfactant solution as opposed to a substitute or replacement. This primary surfactant bridges the gap between the properties of sulphate-based surfactants and new demands in the market such as sustainability and mildness. It can be used as a primary surfactant in formulations that require viscosity, foaming, skin feel and stability, typically not seen without sulphates (See Table 1 for a low-salt betaine shampoo formulation). Co-surfactants are required at a lower
quantity for the properties desired, which provides more flexibility for formulators looking to specialise their product’s features e.g. moisturising.1
Typically, surfactants in standard
grade betaine formulations are salt-sensitive and would require thickeners due to the reaction between high-salt content and co-surfactants, which thins the solution and makes it watery. Preventing this also means reducing the
need for synthetic thickeners like acrylate co- polymers which helps reduce costs and price. Its odourless and light-in-colour condition are ideal base properties to build on in cosmetics. Furthermore, the wide pH stability, solubility and compatibility with other surfactants adds to formulator flexibility and applications. Aside from flexibility, reducing salt content
can have additional benefits to consumers. Reduced-salt surfactants have shown to benefit hair using colouring or dye by preventing the colour rinsing out. This usually occurs from the salt impeding the deposition of certain direct dyes. Across other industries it can help clean salt-sensitive equipment as well as reduce corrosion in production, thereby lowering contaminates in products. By using speciality alloy vessels, the process
can avoid chloride-pitting corrosion and reduce metal contamination and reactants like amidoamine as well as other known skin irritants. By reducing other potential contaminates alongside existing irritants like sulphates, the end-product is a reliably milder and more skin-friendly base surfactant that can be used in the market. Matching foaming has been a barrier in
Sulphate substitutes, with a trade-off in foaming performance and price.3
As a co-surfactant, this
low-salt betaine does not improve foaming in SLES blends. However, a 7.1% active, primary surfactant without SLES, such as Dodecylamidopropyl Betaine (DAB-LS), can produce up to 64mm of foaming. This is nearly 20mm more than standard SLES/CAB blends (see Figure 1 for the
PERSONAL CARE May 2023
75
Foaming Height VS
Total Active Surfactant 50 25
CAB SLES
0 CAB-LS SLES (9.5%)
SLES/CAB (9.7%)
CAB-LS (7.1%)
DAB-LS (7.1%)
CAB-LS DAB-LS
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Low Salt)
Laurylamidopropyl Betaine (Low Salt)
Figure 1: Foaming height for three surfactant combinations: SLES, standard CMB and CAB-LS. Optimal foaming came from CAB-LS as primary surfactant with no SLES
full table and details). Not only can speciality surfactants match SLES, but they can also improve important features like foaming. The next stage or primary surfactants should
become increasingly natural and sustainable, leading the market, and becoming a step forward. Compared to existing surfactants, low- salt betaines use less water in manufacturing, use more sustainable feedstocks, are readily biodegradable and have a natural content over 83%.
This, among its compliance with vegan, halal and animal cruelty-free requirements, makes it a product that is sustainable and desirable. Users can trust these qualities, with multiple certifications for the product’s production from the ISO and material sourcing from the RSPO.
Conclusion There is a wide range of possibilities for the future sulphate-free surfactants like Librateric low-salt betaines. Within personal care, it can be used as a wide-use primary surfactant, as well as for specialist skin and hair care. The growing range of applications and global
market use is an indicator that products no longer need to rely on being ‘sulphate-free’ to be successful. Instead of compromising, consumers now have the option of an advanced cosmetics solution that meets key expectations, at a lower cost compared to previous substitutes.
ingredients/cleansing/article/21836966/ sulfate-vs-sulfate-free-information-to- make-a-choice#3
4. Ringrow H. Peptides, proteins and peeling active ingredients: exploring “scientific” language in English and French cosmetics advertising. Études de Stylistique Anglaise. 2014 Dec 31;(7):183–210
5. California Department of Toxic Substances Control. 1,4-Dioxane in Personal Care and Cleaning Products.
https://dtsc.ca.gov/scp/1- 4-dioxane/
6. Kano H, Umeda Y, Kasai T, Sasaki T, Matsumoto M, Yamazaki K et al. Carcinogenicity studies of 1,4-dioxane administered in drinking-water to rats and mice for 2years. Food and Chemical Toxicology. 2009 Nov;47(11):2776–84. https://
www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/ pii/S0278691509003895#:˜:text=Based%20 on%20evidence%20in%20humans%20 and%20experimental%20animals%2C
7. Consumer products regulations on the rise for 1,4-Dioxane. Bryan Cave Leighton Paisner Law. 2022.
https://www.bclplaw.com/en-US/ events-insights-news/consumer-products-
regulations-on-the-rise-for-14-dioxane.html
PC
References 1. Cornwell PA. A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2017, Dec 14;40(1):16–30
2. George NM, Potlapati A. Shampoo, conditioner and hair washing. International Journal of Research in Dermatology. 2021, Dec 24;8(1):185
3. Sulfate vs. Sulfate-free: Information to Make a Choice. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2013 https://
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/cosmetic-
8. Bondi CAM, Marks JL, Wroblewski LB, Raatikainen HS, Lenox SR, Gebhardt KE. Human and Environmental Toxicity of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS): Evidence for Safe Use in Household Cleaning Products. Environmental Health Insights. 2015 Jan;9:EHI.S31765
9. Meachum V. Sulfate vs Sulfate Free Shampoo: Is One Better Than The Other?. The Mestiza Muse. 2022.
https://themestizamuse.com/ sulfate-vs-sulfate-free-shampoo-is-one- better-than-the-other/
10. Market O Graphics. Sulfate Free Shampoo Market is Going to Boom with L’Oréal, Avlon, Procter & Gamble, Unilever, Johnson & Johnson Services. January 24 2023.
https://marketographics.com/sulfate-free- shampoo-market/
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Foaming Height (mm)
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