68 SUN CARE
Formulating with UVA protection in mind
Amy Huang, Jochen Klock, Gernot Kunze, Anne Janssen - DSM
It is important to remember that to protect skin as effectively as possible against the detrimental effects of sun exposure, sunscreen formulations need to be ‘broad spectrum’ and to filter both UVB and UVA light. A prime reason for this is because UVB and UVA radiation both contribute in the development of skin cancer. However, these forms of radiation are also
associated with other but different types of skin damage. The effects of UVB rays tend to be experienced more immediately and in the short term, in the form of acute sunburn and inflammation. In contrast, effects of exposure to UVA light, such as photoageing and pigmentary disorders, accumulate and manifest over the long term as UVA rays penetrate the skin more deeply. UV filters, the key performance ingredients in
sunscreens, generally protect against primarily UVB or UVA light, although some are broad spectrum and cover both parts. UVB filters are, in general, behind a formulation’s sun protection factor (SPF) which indicates the level of protection a product provides against the effects of UVB radiation such as sunburn and skin redness - compared to unprotected skin. SPF is perhaps more likely to be on
consumers’ radars because this measurement has been around for many decades and is understood by consumers that if applied correctly, a higher SPF value provides better protection against sunburn. From a regulatory perspective, SPF is
well described and highly regulated. Yet as a formulator, while it is important to be mindful of SPF, it is equally important to achieve adequate UVA protection. This is due to regulatory requirements for UVA and broadband protection and because consumer demand for multifunctional products has been growing in the past years. In this article, we take a brief look at
the regulatory landscape regarding UVA for sunscreens and then consider some of the facial care benefits which UV filters, particularly those for UVA, can provide in addition to SPF.
UVA protection – A regulatory overview While SPF is a well understood metric for the performance of a sun protection product, this is not necessarily the case when it comes to UVA protection as there are even more variations on the requirements. In view of the extensive nature of this topic, here, we limit ourselves to a short summary of
PERSONAL CARE May 2023
salient points for three major markets. However, broader and more detailed overviews of global sunscreen regulations are available.1
European Union In the European Union, sunscreen products come under the classification of cosmetic products, in line with EU Cosmetic Regulation EC No 1223/2009. Specific guidelines on efficacy testing, labelling and claims are set out in
ABSTRACT
UVB protection and SPF are essential components of sunscreen products. Yet as formulators, are we giving enough attention to UVA protection? There are good reasons why we should do so. In part, due to regulatory requirements in different global markets, but also to provide consumers with products that help protect facial skin against signs of photoageing, such as lines and wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation − both which are known to be caused mainly by UVA radiation. To bring maximum flexibility to formulators in meeting both regulatory stipulations and consumer needs, DSM introduces a second UVA filter, PARSOL® DHHB (Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), to its portfolio. In this article, we offer a recap of the regulatory requirements for UVA protection and studies in support of the skin care benefits UVA protection could bring as part of everyday, multifunctional products.
Commission Recommendation 2006/647/EC.2 Under these guidelines, sunscreen products
UVA
Figure 1: The European Union’s UVA logo indicates that a sunscreen product’s UVA protection is at least one third of its UVB protection and the criterion for critical wavelength is fulfilled
should protect against both UVB and UVA and comply with the following minimum efficacy requirements: ■ UVB protection of at least SPF 6 ■ UVA protection, if claimed, must be at least one third of a product’s UVB protection (UVA/ UVB ratio) the critical wavelength must be at least 370nm. ■ Products meeting the minimum criteria for UVA protection are permitted to display the label shown in Figure 1. The UVA-PF of marketed products is tested using ISO methods and can be measured in vitro provided that the SPF value has been tested in vivo, which is preferred for ethical reasons. A validated method for in vivo UVA also exists and remain an option for measuring UVA- PF. This method for UVA testing has also been adopted as standard in other regions outside Europe, including ASEAN, Australia, and South America.
USA In the USA, sunscreen products come under the classification of over-the-counter drugs, or OTC drugs. As an outcome, they must be registered
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