38 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
also thinking of creative options outside of the food and beverage industry. Upcycled charcoal could be milled into a skin-friendly exfoliant, detoxifying mask or shampoo ingredient. Several companies upcycle cedar shavings left over from the furniture industry or offcuts from logging to extract oil for fragrance that could be used in deodorants, for example. Tree bark extract, a byproduct of maple,
spruce and pine lumber, is high in polyphenols and could be used in day creams. However, along with the creativity, comes much-needed safety guardrails. Some of the wood and bark byproducts are considered highly restricted according to the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). The 49th amendment of IFRA Standards
uses quantitative risk assessment to determine the safe use of fragrance ingredients to assess possible systemic toxicity based on aggregate exposure models.10
Cedrene content, the
possibility of intermixed treated lumber and the destructive distillation of wood or bark are concerns.
Why use upcycled ingredients? A large amount of land, water and energy is required to produce food that is wasted. According to the World Wildlife Fund, it takes 760km3
food wasted each year.3
Protection Agency echoes the concern: ‘Each year, US food loss and waste embodies 170 million metric tons of CO2 MTCO2
emissions) – equal to the annual CO2 of 42 coal-fired power plants.’11
e) GHG emissions (excluding landfill The estimate
equivalent (million emissions
does not include methane emissions that come from food waste rotting in landfills. Upcycled ingredients can help. In 2022,
through Upcycled Certified products and ingredients, 496,103 tons of food have been prevented from becoming food waste, representing a savings of over 1 million metric tons of CO2
CEO Angie Crone. “The number of products and ingredients certified is expected to grow at an annual rate of 15% over the next ten years.” UFA championed and launched the
of water to grow the 1.2 billion tons of The US Environmental
Upcycled Certified programme in 2021 to provide brands an opportunity to innovate and collaborate with suppliers, reduce supply chain risk, and connect with their consumers. Upcycled Certified product sales grew by 21% over the course of a year ending on October 30, 2022, which was faster than non-GMO, certified organic, and plant-based positioned products, according to the data provider SPINS. The marketing benefits may also be
substantial. A recent Provenance report suggests that although 90% of consumers consider sustainability when buying beauty products, more than 70% admit they are not quite sure what that means and have difficulty trusting such claims.12
Upcycled ingredients can help brands tell a clearer story. equivalents. “We expect this figure
to increase to at least 2.5 million tons annually in 10 years,” says Upcycled Food Association (UFA)
20 16 12 8 4 0
Conclusion According to a 2019 study, upcycling can deliver positive functional, aesthetic, social and emotional value to consumers. It suggested that they might even gain a sense of status and self-esteem from the purchase of upcycled
No significant evolution on time for PLACEBO LOTION
15.8 14.7 15.2 12.2
Day0 ■ Day 28 ■ -20%*
ingredients.13 In addition, upcycled ingredients
can help minimize resources while adding value to quality personal care products and give consumers positive feelings - a win for all involved.
References 1.
Fact.MR. Circular Beauty Products Market Outlook (2022-2032)
2.
Ellenmacarthurfoundation.org 3. Enright N. Energy and Resource Efficiency without the tears. 2018. https://bit. ly/3YbzZzo
4. World Wildlife Fund. Driven to waste.
https://wwf.panda.org/discover/our_focus/ food_practice/food_loss_and_waste/driven_ to_waste_global_food_loss_on_farms/
5. World Food Programme. 5 facts about food waste and hunger.
https://www.wfp.org/ stories/5-facts-about-food-waste-and-hunger
6. The Guardian. Half of all US food produce is thrown away, new research suggests. 13 July, 2016.
https://www.theguardian.com/ environment/2016/jul/13/us-food-waste- ugly-fruit-vegetables-perfect
7. Inside Ingredients: Pumpkin. https://www.
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulas- products/skin-care/article/21835621/inside- ingredients-pumpkin
8. Ro J, Kim Y, Kim H, Jang SB et al. Anti- Oxidative Activity of Pectin and its Stabilizing Effect on Retinyl Palmitate. Korean J. Physiol. Pharmacol. 2013 Jun;17(3):197-201. doi: 10.4196/kjpp.2013.17.3.197
9. Lebreton-Decoster C, Rousselle P, Laperdrix C et al. Oligogalacturonides Improve Tissue Organization of In Vitro Reconstructed Skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 33(5):455-61
10. Index of IFRA Standards – 49th Amendment. 10 January, 2020.
Ifrafragrance.org.
* variation with regard to the
initial values only
Placebo Lotion (ref.:JET/200711-562)
Lotion (ref.:JET/200711-225)
Figure 5: The effect of a lotion with pectin to protect against water loss. In comparison to the placebo lotion, the lotion with pectin showed a significant TEWL decrease of 20% (g/h1/m2
) PERSONAL CARE May 2023
11. Food waste and its links to greenhouse gases and climate change. https://www.
usda.gov/media/blog/2022/01/24/food- waste-and-its-links-greenhouse-gases-and- climate-change
12. Provenance 2022 Skin Deep Beauty Report. Project Provenance Ltd.
13. Yu S, Lee J. The Effects of Consumers’ Perceived Values on Intention to Purchase Upcycled Products. Sustainability. 2019; 11, 1034.
https://doi.org/10.3390/su11041034
www.personalcaremagazine.com PC
TEWL (g/h-1
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