INTERVIEW Tim Probert – Editor, Personal Care Global
Ahead of Suppliers’ Day in New York on 2-3 May, editor Tim Probert caught up with NYSCC chair Stacey House (senior VP for consumer beauty R&D at Coty) and chair-elect Amber Evans (senior manager for product development at Moroccanoil) to discuss the show, NYSCC and industry trends
Tim Probert (TP): The strapline of this year’s Suppliers’ Day is ‘reimagining renewal and wellness’. What does that mean for the NYSCC and the show? STACEY HOUSE (SH): At Suppliers’ Day, we plan to bring our theme of Reimagining Renewal and Wellness to
life with several new activations and educational programmes. The event will explore how wellness, and eco-consciousness touches all areas of the industry shining a light on sustainable beauty with circular solutions, devices, inside/out beauty, microbiome and oral care. Our Week of Beauty will create
an immersive experience to invoke the senses with functional solutions. Fragrance is an important category with strong wellbeing connections along with biotech solutions.
TP: Would you say there’s convergence between personal care and the pharmaceutical/ medical industry? SH: We are seeing the convergence with dermo and neurocosmetics expansion in skin as well as colour cosmetics. NYSCC recognizes the benefits
of tapping into other industries and we wanted to increase exposure for further growth in personal care. These industries also offer learnings to enhance wellbeing in products. It’s just about how we are
able to integrate newer ways of thinking like biotech, which is becoming more mainstream in our industry.
AMBER EVANS (AE): A lot of the advancement within the cosmetic industry has been through
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partnering with various branches of science. Not just partnering for formulations, but also integrating various types of tools and AI to deliver more efficacious and targeted benefits.
TP: Does that convergence with pharma/medical science potentially pose a problem in terms of regulation? AE: The industry will need to work through what this landscape looks like going forward and where the limits exist for remaining cosmetic within the current and future modified regulations. If the primary claim of a
product is a cosmetic affect such as improving the appearance or feel of the skin, one could argue that there is more freedom with the additional claim of boosting wellbeing since perception is tied to self-esteem and general wellbeing. It will be interesting to see
how this unfolds as the cosmetic industry moves more in this direction.
TP: I suppose the industry will have to make sure they have good legal teams dotting the i’s and crossing the t’s. AE: Yes, absolutely. The industry will also have to make sure that there is input from all stakeholders and clear alignment.
TP: What does that mean for the regulatory side of the personal care industry and the work of NYSCC? SH: Regulatory guidance is a critical aspect and keeping the industry updated is an important focus for NYSCC. This year we have programmes to share relevant updates on MoCRA (the US Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act) and the Green Seal in Europe.
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INTERVIEW
Expanding horizons
It’s important for us to have the right conversations to prepare the industry appropriately. There will be more programmes to be able to support that.
TP:Also on regulation, is the US ever going to change its sunscreen rules or is that can just going to be kicked down the road again? AE: I hope the US makes progress towards sunscreen regulations that allow for the use of more UV filters, which would allow the opportunity for further product development, innovation and improved efficacy. With the understanding that some other technologies are in safe use in other regions, the challenges associated with the approval process for such technologies in the US have been the source of frustration across the industry.
TP: It terms of trends what’s hot in the US right now and, looking into your crystal ball, what do you see coming down the track? SH: Sustainability is a mainstay, but is a positive catalyst creating exciting trend opportunities giving new life to product forms, ingredients, and packaging. This includes functional beauty solutions to support skinification with biotech, fermented ingredients to help address inflammation and skin stressors that contribute to wellbeing. Consumers are interested to better understand their beauty and personal care needs and to become intentional with purchases. Transparency supports
intentional beauty purchases and sustainable adoption. Ingredient listing minimalism with fewer
May 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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