Volume 24 Issue 5
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CONTENTS
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Editor’s Comment Cover Story: Azelis News
115 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
17 Interview: Expanding horizons Ahead of Suppliers’ Day in New York on 2-3 May, editor Tim Probert caught up with NYSCC chair Stacey House (senior VP for consumer beauty R&D at Coty) and chair-elect Amber Evans (senior manager for product development at Moroccanoil) to discuss the show, NYSCC and industry trends
21 Barcelona buzzes as in-cos gets back to its best
A comprehensive post-event review of key and emerging themes, industry insight, product launches, award winners from the 2023 edition of the in-cosmetics Global trade show, which took place in Barcelona on 28-30 March
29 Sclerotium gum shield - biopolymer protection
Air pollutants such as particulate matter, heavy metals, and ozone are believed to induce or exacerbate a range of skin conditions, such as ageing and sensitive skin. Such situations inspired Cargill Beauty to explore the capacity of its range of biopolymers to protect the skin from these aggressors
35 Finding function and value in upcycled ingredients
CP Kelco explains why upcycled ingredients can help minimize resources while adding value to quality personal care products and give consumers positive feelings - a win for all involved – and sheds light on its own upcycled ingredients
40 Photoprotecting skin microbiota against ageing
Spanish firm Vytrus Biotech has developed a 100% natural active ingredient that protects the cutaneous microbiota involved in fighting the signs of photoageing, at the same time it stimulates the antioxidant and photo-protecting microbial metabolism under sun exposure
45 Seven steps for formulating on a budget
With many consumers of cosmetics facing issues related to the cost of living, British distributor Aston Chemicals explains why reducing the cost of formulations is best tackled in a holistic way by analysing the whole development and manufacturing process to identify areas of potential cost saving
51 Protecting skin against air pollution with ahiflower
Natures Crops International explores the benefits of ahiflower oil and suggests it has a perhaps uniquely adaptive role in protecting skin cells in topical applications from myriad effects of air pollution, while offering complementary dietary support options
57 Rethinking oxidation protection in cosmetics
Adapted to the needs of the formulator, armed with new technical capabilities, and with consumer demands in mind, Evonik has developed a unique method for testing oxidation stability. The method measures the oxygen consumption of the formulation without destroying it and captures the entire oxidation process under standardized, real product conditions
63 Naturally derived film former for water resistance
In recent years, the concern about the film former impacting the environment has pushed the personal care industry for natural water resistance. Bis-octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/ Propanediol Copolymer (BODP) is a naturally derived film former utilized in inorganic sunscreen formulations to provide water resistance
68 Formulating with UVA protection in mind
Signs of photoageing, such as lines and wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation are both known to be caused mainly by UVA radiation. To bring maximum flexibility to formulators in meeting both regulatory stipulations and consumer needs, DSM has introduced a new UVA filter to its portfolio
71 Innovating surfactants beyond sulphate-free
Libra Speciality Chemicals explains how consumers have the option of an advanced cosmetics solution that meets key expectations at a lower cost compared to previous sulphate-free substitutes
75 Waterless formulations: the heart of sustainability
Quintis Sandalwood looks at the role Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) can play in the growing trend of waterless formulation
78 Breaking taboos: the role of the vaginal microbiome
MyMicrobiome explores a specific part of the human microbiome that has not gained as much attention as the well-established gut or skin microbiome – yet
92 Japanese Language Section
The latest news and features from some of the world’s leading personal care ingredient suppliers for our readers in Japan. This year’s Japanese language section features contributions from Kalichem, Seiwa Kasei, IFF Health & Biosciences, Skinobs, Elementis and Courage + Khazaka
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May 2023 PERSONAL CARE 40
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