36 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
is considered the leading source of raw material for upcycled ingredients used in the beauty and personal care industry. It makes sense to use food-grade ingredients, which may contain vitamins and nutrients that could benefit skin and deliver key traits to formulations. In addition, there is an abundance of
material to use. The numbers are staggering. The World Wildlife Fund estimated that 1.2 billion tons of food are wasted on farms each year.4
That comes out to one-third of the food
produced for human consumption globally, according to the World Food Programme. Cutting food waste in half by 2030 is one of
the United Nations’ top priorities and among its Sustainable Development Goals. In industrialized countries, more than 40% of the loss occurs at retail and consumer levels.5
The Guardian even
suggests that up to half of all produce in the US is thrown away based on appearance.6
This causes
farmers to choose whether to discard (even plow under) blemished produce or face the possibility that it will be ignored by consumers at the store who will not select fruits and vegetables with spots or bruises. However, the irony that these cosmetic imperfections could lead to a new lease on life by the cosmetic industry should make one smile. Some of the most common ingredients for
upcycling come from fruit peels, kernels, seeds or pits. Olive or stone fruit pits and seeds can be effective exfoliating ingredients. Cold press technology might also be used to process oil from nuts and seeds. Coffee or chicory grounds can be used for exfoliation and there is even potential as an argan oil alternative. Several companies press dried blueberry seeds and plum kernels discarded from jam makers to create oil. A single fruit can be the source of many active ingredients with different properties. Proteases present in pumpkin are a beloved peel and mask ingredient while pumpkin seeds are rich in unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E.7
Some manufacturers are
tapping into food waste for colour as well. In addition to active ingredients, skin
Figure 2: The circular economy model of take – make – use – and now upcycle raw material to 'close the loop' and eliminate waste
care and cosmetics often rely on polymers to improve bioactivity and provide consistent suspension, stabilization and texture. Polymers are important raw materials that can be classified as synthetic, such as silicone or the polyesters, and nature-based, such as polysaccharides and collagen. The use of nature-based polymers is of special interest to formulators because of its biodegradability, meaning the ingredient will decompose and be reabsorbed by the environment. There is evidence that some food waste can be upcycled into polymers. Pectin and citrus
fibre, for example, can be upcycled from fruit peels. Pectin is also well-known by consumers because of its traditional uses in food, such as jams and jellies, so it becomes a label- friendly ingredient. Citrus fibre is also easy for consumers to understand. Both pectin and citrus fibre share some desirable properties, including the capacity to retain water and form hydrogels, making them effective thickeners for cosmetics and personal care products. In addition, a recent study from Korea
examined the anti-oxidative activity of pectin and its stabilizing effect on retinyl palmitate.8 There was also an in vitro study performed by University Paris Descartes that suggests polysaccharides from apple pectin may provide anti-aging effects by helping to promote epidermal growth.9 CP Kelco upcycles citrus fibre from the peel
of sweet orange (Citrus sinensis). Because it retains much of its pectin content, it can deliver similar skin-friendly benefits but perhaps with a lighter skin feel. Citrus fibre can stabilize emulsions to take the place of synthetic carbomers. It does not require ions to gel and may be combined with other hydrocolloids to form a variety of interesting textures. Preliminary results show that, at higher use levels (1.7-2%), there is a cushiony, slightly powdery after feel. Citrus fibre is also stable in low pH formulations, very much in alignment with skin’s own pH levels.
Figure 3: The resource efficiency hierarchy of waste strategies PERSONAL CARE May 2023
Nurturing the microbiome As more companies and consumers learn about the skin microbiome, its importance becomes apparent. The microbiome is reliant on diverse bacteria and a balanced pH, with
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