48 FORMULATING
subjects with moderate to mild acne applied a 2% salicylic acid solution with and without 5% Baycusan C 1000 in two infrascapular areas containing acne lesions for four consecutive days. The size and type of acne lesions were graded according to a standardised scale. The results proved that Baycusan C 1000
improves the efficacy of the anti-acne serum, and significantly reduced lesion size and inflammation. The film produced by Baycusan C 1000 facilitates longer-lasting retention of salicylic acid on the surface of human skin, resulting in enhanced effects. This effect was also shown with retinol, ascorbyl glucoside and hyaluronic acid. Ingredients can also work synergistically, giving boosted effect in comparison to using each ingredient individually. In some cases, using lower levels of each ingredient can result in an enhanced effect for both. For example, L-VCG (ingredient developed by CX Pharma), Ascorbyl Glucoside, is well known for brightening and radiance, and novel plant-produced collagen 1 fragment Col-Frag Remastered( by Lipotrue), also provides these benefits to skin. However, when used in combination at 1% each, the effects are significantly increased compared to using either at 2% alone.
6: Incorporating instant effects Consumers want to see benefits instantly, and often do not have the patience to wait a few weeks. An immediate effect will enhance the consumer’s experience of the product and their perception of its activity, while longer term actives are given the time they need to take effect. This is therefore an important strategy to ensure that the consumer continues use of the product in order to gain all of the benefits. Colour changing formulations can appear
to be frivolous fun, but when consumers see a change on their skin, it can enhance the perception that the product is active, and working as it should. Encapsulated pigments, such as the BioGenic Magicolour range of products (by Biogenics), can offer novelty colour changes in masks and cleansers, as well as in moisturisers to provide light skin toned coverage or colour correction. This can be a powerful tool when combined with active ingredients to tackle the skin concern in the long term. Blurring products are also a popular
choice, and the consumer should be able to see an immediate improvement on their skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and blemishes. Products such as Imercare Blur (ingredient developed by Imerys), a spherical calcium carbonate powder, can give this instant effect in a range of product formats.
7: Ingredients requiring low usage but offering a high impact Using ingredients with low usage levels but a high impact on performance could also reduce formulation costs. Water-in-silicone formulations, for example, can contain very high amounts of water, and very low percentages of silicone products, but still have
PERSONAL CARE May 2023
* p<0.05; **p<0.01 125
100
-18%**
Untreated control
75 vs. -31%**
Untreated control
vs.
50 Untreated control 5% kojic acid 0.03% CLARITEA Figure 4: Reduction of melanin quantity – 5% kojic acid versus 0.03% Claritea
a premium skin feel, which justifies the value instantly to consumers. The KSG silicone gels (by Shin Etsu
Silicones) can significantly enhance the feel of a product at a very low inclusion level. The 3D silicone network glides over skin, giving an elegant feel to products which are primarily water based. In water-in-silicone emulsions, KSG’s help
to stabilise as well as improve the sensory properties of a formulation, providing a smooth, silky skin feel. They can be dispersed in thick, aqueous gels, where the viscosity keeps them stable. This can result in a richer skin feel, enhanced pick up and cushioning texture. This is demonstrated in the Silky Splash Balancing Primer, an aqueous gel containing over 80% water, which is elevated to a more luxurious product with the addition of 5% KSG-016F (by Shin-Etsu Silicones). This is also applicable to active ingredients.
Those which have claims supporting data at lower usage levels can result in lower costs overall. Formulators should look for those which are assessed against well-known and well-studied ingredients, in order to be able to compare against other active ingredients. For example, Claritea® (by Solabia) is a
brightening active, which has been tested against kojic acid for reduction of melanin quantity released by melanocytes. In an in vitro study, 5% kojic acid resulted in an 18% reduction compared to the control whereas using just 0.03% Claritea resulted in a 31% reduction in melanin quantity compared to the control. This helps Claritea to illuminate the complexion and fight against skin imperfections.
Conclusion While these methods of cost savings are individually important, they all overlap and
support each other. Analysing every aspect of the development process will help formulators to identify cost savings on individual ingredients and products, as well as for the range and brand as a whole and ensure that they remain excellent value for money in the eyes of their consumers.
References 1. Forbes. With Recession Threatening, The Lipstick Effect Kicks in and Lipstick Sales Rise. 1 June 2022.
https://www.forbes. com/sites/pamdanziger/2022/06/01/with- inflation-rising-the-lipstick-effect-kicks-in- and-lipstick-sales-rise/
2. New York Times. Hard Times, But Your Lips Look Great. 1 May 2008. https://www.
nytimes.com/2008/05/01/fashion/01SKIN. html
3. The Guardian. Lipstick Effect: Britons Turn to Small Luxuries in Cost of Living Crisis. 14 October 2022.
https://www.theguardian. com/business/2022/oct/14/lipstick-effect- britons--luxuries-cost-of-living-crisis
4. Mintel. British Lifestyles 2022: Facing Up To The Cost Of Living Crisis. 2022
5. Chemists Corner. 8 Ways to Reduce Your Cosmetic Formula Cost. 12 September 2016.
https://chemistscorner.com/8-ways-to- reduce-your-cosmetic-formula-cost/
6. Cosmetics & Toiletries. Approaches to Cold-Process formulations. 21 February 2014.
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries. com/formulas-products/skin-care/ blog/21837783/approaches-to-cold- process-formulations
PC
7. Cosmetics Business. Meet Beauty’s New Overachievers: Hypertasking Hybrids. 2 December 2022. https://www.
cosmeticsbusiness.com/news/article_page/ Meet_beautys_new_overachievers_ Hypertasking_hybrids/205378
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Melanin quantiy (% vs. Untreated control)
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