46 FORMULATING In order to create a cold process product,
the first step is to identify the processes which usually need to be heated. The biggest culprits are found in the oil phase – butters and emulsifiers. Replacing solid oil phase ingredients with liquid oils and esters will help to reduce the energy required for heating and cooling. Lipex SheaLiquid TR (by AAK Personal Care) is an alternative to solid butters, as it has the same benefits of shea butter but in a liquid format.
The melting point of Lipex SheaLiquid TR
is 15-17°C and so it requires no heating during production. Use of liquid shea compared to solid shea butters results in significant energy savings, which can also benefit the environment. Some active ingredients also require
significant heating. Traditional ceramides often need to be heated to very high temperatures (>90°C) in order to melt and solubilise into the oil phases, which can add significant costs to the process. Ceraplex (by Sunjin Beauty Science) is a cold-process delivery system for ceramides, and also acts as a water-in- oil emulsifier. It does not require heating on addition to the formulation and is therefore suitable for use as an active ingredient during cold process manufacturing. Its multifunctionality is an added advantage.
3. Multifunctional ingredients Multifunctional ingredients are a formulators best friend. They can be used to give multiple benefits in the same formulation, which reduces the number of ingredients that need to be purchased and allows use at a lower level compared to using two or more ingredients. The extra space in the formulation can be filled with water or a cheaper material. By purchasing just one material, savings can be made on freight, and higher order quantities could also result in reduced pricing. This often works best for active ingredients,
which are some of the more expensive components of personal care products.
0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 Mixing ■ Heat ■ Cool ■ Tempering ■ Hot Low temp -53% energy consumption
Figure 1: Breakdown of energy consumption in production stages - hot versus low temperature processing
Replacing multiple ingredients with different activities with one active with multiple benefits still allows multiple claims to be made, but at a reduced cost. MARSturiser (by Lipotrue), for example, can be used in a formulation for moisturisation, skin regeneration and skin barrier reinforcement, as well as repair after sun damage, with data on face and body for an added benefit. Emulsifiers are another great example of
multifunctional ingredients, with some also acting as thickeners and rheology modifiers. The multifunctional ingredient Dermothix -100 (by Alzo) is an ideal example. Alone in a water based formulation, it acts as a shear-thickening rheology modifier, giving a unique rheology to self-levelling gels and mask formulations. Add an oil phase to the formulation however, and Dermothix-100 becomes an emulsifier, which is used at lower levels with larger oil phases. It also has an extra benefit of boosting the SPF of sun screen products that contain organic and inorganic UV filters. Multifunctional ingredients can be used
2% salicylic acid ■ 5% Baycusan C1000+2% Salicylic acid ■
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4
Figure 2: Reduction of size of acne lesions using salicylic acid over 4 days, with and without 5% Baycusan C1000
PERSONAL CARE May 2023
across a range or portfolio of products which require different functions, for example across face, body and hair. Again, only one material needs to be purchased and this could have the added benefits of a much higher price break, if larger volumes are required. Fucogel® (by Solabia) is a worthy example
of a cross-category multifunctional active ingredient, with its SMARTS (soothing, moisturising, anti-ageing, restructuring, textural, smoothing of hair) data. It is also available in different formats: standard, COSMOS approved and in powder form, making it suitable for a wide range of formulations. Solabia and other ingredient suppliers often conduct new in vitro and in vivo tests on their existing portfolio of products to enable additional claims to be made for established ingredients. Brands should keep in contact with ingredient suppliers to ensure they are aware of new claims they could make for their products.
4. Multifunctional formulations/ product format As well as multifunctional ingredients, formulators should also look at the product as a whole. Products with cross-category benefits have thrived since the explosion of BB and CC creams a decade ago. With the cost of living crisis, beauty multitaskers are likely to reach new levels of demand as people justify the price tag of products by having multiple benefits. Sienna Piccioni, head of beauty at WGSN,
says products that have multiple functions and added benefits “will be a hit with consumers wanting to get more value from their purchase, especially with make-up-skin care hybrids, such as SPF-tinted serums with hydrating actives that save money, time and improve skin health.”7 Colour cosmetics with added SPF benefits
are a popular choice among formulators and consumers alike. Inorganic sunscreens, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, can be whitening on skin, and therefore adding them into formulations which are already pigmented allows the formulator more flexibility on which grades of the UV filters they can use.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
% Lesion Size Reduction
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