SUN CARE
Fungal biotechnology for boosting sunscreen
Ido Cohen – Maicelium Biomaterials
The sun care industry is at a critical juncture, facing increasing pressure to develop more sustainable and environmentally friendly formulations while maintaining the high- performance standards that consumers expect. As scrutiny intensifies around synthetic
polymers in cosmetic formulations, including in sun care products, innovative alternatives are emerging from an unexpected source: fungal biotechnology. Two biomolecules in particular - fungal-derived chitosan and beta-glucan - are showing remarkable potential as natural alternatives to synthetic sunscreen boosters.1 Traditional sunscreen formulations have long
relied on synthetic polymers to achieve crucial functional properties. These include even UV filter distribution, water resistance, emulsion stability, and optimal texture. However, health risks such as various
types of cancers, respiratory disorders, and inflammatory diseases, alongside growing environmental concerns, are increasing consumer demand for natural alternatives. This has catalysed the search for sustainable replacements that can match or exceed the performance of synthetic materials.2
Fungal-derived chitosan: a promising solution Fungal-derived chitosan represents a particularly promising solution in the quest for natural sun care ingredients. Unlike its marine- sourced counterpart, fungal chitosan offers unique advantages in sun care applications. Its naturally lower molecular weight
contributes to enhanced solubility and superior film-forming properties, creating a uniform, flexible film on the skin surface. This characteristic is crucial for sunscreen
efficacy, as it ensures even distribution of UV filters and improved adherence to the skin. The result is more consistent protection and reduced UV filter migration, addressing key performance requirements in modern sun care formulations. Maicelium Biomaterials, an Israeli startup based in Tel Aviv, has developed these biopolymers as a solution to this issue.3
The company delivers these fungal-
derived biopolymers to cosmetic brands and formulators as an alternative to petroleum- based synthetic polymers, offering a sustainable and effective option for the sun care industry.
Chemical structure and properties Chitosan is a linear polysaccharide composed
www.personalcaremagazine.com
of randomly distributed β-(1→4)-linked D-glucosamine and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units. The unique chemical structure of fungal chitosan, with its specific arrangement of amino and hydroxyl groups, contributes to its versatile properties in cosmetic applications. The presence of free amino groups along the
polymer chain gives chitosan its cationic nature, which is rare among natural polysaccharides.4 This positive charge, as offered by Maicelium Biomaterials enables chitosan to interact effectively with negatively charged surfaces, including skin and hair, enhancing its film- forming and adhesive properties.
Film-forming capabilities The film-forming capability of fungal chitosan is one of its most valuable attributes in sun care formulations. When applied to the skin, chitosan forms a thin, flexible, and transparent film that acts as a protective barrier. This film not only helps to distribute UV filters evenly across the skin surface but also improves their adherence, leading to more consistent and long-lasting sun protection.
The mechanism behind chitosan’s film-
forming ability lies in its molecular structure and behaviour in solution. When chitosan is dissolved in a slightly acidic medium, its polymer chains
extend and become more flexible. As the solution is applied to the skin and
the solvent evaporates, these extended chains begin to interact and entangle with each other, forming a cohesive network. The presence of hydrogen bonding between chitosan molecules further strengthens this network, resulting in a stable and flexible film. The molecular weight of Maicelium’s fungal
chitosan plays a crucial role in determining the properties of the formed film. Fungal chitosan, with its naturally lower molecular weight compared to marine-sourced chitosan, forms films that are more flexible and less brittle.5 This characteristic is particularly beneficial in sun care applications, as it allows the film to move with the skin, maintaining protection even during physical activity.
Adhesive properties and water resistance The adhesive properties of fungal chitosan significantly improve the sunscreen’s adherence to the skin, even under conditions of sweating or water exposure. This characteristic minimizes the migration or loss of UV filters, which is a common challenge with many sun care formulations. By reducing the movement of these active
October 2025 PERSONAL CARE
97
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112
