MARINE INGREDIENTS
Algal biodiversity for advanced formulation
Andréa Nigon - Seppic
The cosmetic landscape is increasingly shaped by a dual imperative: the persistent consumer demand for high-performance, visibly effective active ingredients and a growing global emphasis on sustainability and naturality. This confluence drives a relentless search for
novel bio-sourced compounds that can deliver tangible benefits while adhering to ethical and environmentally conscious practices. It is within this context that the remarkable biodiversity of algae emerges as a primary horizon for innovation. This article delves into the technical
advancements leveraging marine resources to meet these market needs, exploring how targeted approaches, from selecting rare species with potent properties to employing sophisticated extraction technologies, are crucial for unlocking their full cosmetic potential.
Exploration of algal biodiversity for cosmetic benefits through phytochemistry Macroalgae biodiversity, phytochemistry and environmental adaptations inspiring cosmetics Algae, foundational to marine ecosystems, exhibit a diversity in size, morphology, and habitat. Among the estimated 9,000 species of macroalgae worldwide, we find a spectrum from centimetre-sized forms like Ceramium sp. to meter-long kelps such as Undaria pinnatifida and Macrocystis pyrifera. This morphological variability is directly linked to their adaptation to diverse and often harsh marine environments. Macroalgae are constantly exposed to fluctuating conditions, including variations in salinity and pH, light exposure, temperature, water circulation and pressure. To survive and thrive in these challenging settings, they have unique metabolic pathways, leading to the production of a wide range of chemical compounds. These compounds, often serving as protective mechanisms against UV radiation, oxidative stress, or predation, possess unique bioactive properties that have inspired the cosmetic industry.
Identification of phytochemical diversity in marine macroalgae for cosmetic benefits The composition of macroalgae explains their phytochemical richness, encompassing a broad spectrum of valuable compounds. Analysis reveals significant percentages of lipids (0.4-
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9%), proteins (8-31%), minerals (16-30%), and glucides (30-50%) on a dry matter basis. Beyond these foundational components,
macroalgae are composed of specialized metabolites (0.1-6%), which are of particular interest for cosmetic applications. These include phenols and phlorotannins, renowned for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties; carotenoids, offering potent antioxidant and UV protection; terpenes and sterols; polar lipids; mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) for anti- ageing and cell protection; polyols; and various vitamins. The concentration and specific profile of
these bioactive compounds are not static; they are dynamically influenced by the algal species, its specific growth conditions and seasonal variations. This inherent variability underscores the importance of targeted sourcing and advanced processing to unlock the full cosmetic potential of each algal species.
Specialized metabolites of macroalgae Among the vast algal kingdom, Undaria pinnatifida and Himanthalia elongata stand out for their distinct phytochemical signatures and remarkable cosmetic benefits, which is why
they are going to be presented in this article. Undaria pinnatifida, commonly known as Wakame, is a brown algae with significant cosmetic antioxidant benefits. Its primary active compounds are carotenoid molecules known to be antioxidant and more specifically fucoxanthin. Himanthalia elongata, commonly known as sea bean or sea thong, is also a brown seaweed, as an exceptional source of polar lipids, particularly sulfoquinovosyldiacylglycerols (SQDG), crucial for maintaining cellular and tissue integrity in plants. It is how it has become an ideal candidate for anti-ageing formulations focused on collagen synthesis and combating skin sagging.
Algal production biotechnology Comparative study of developmental stages for enhanced properties The lifecycle of macroalgae, particularly species like Undaria pinnatifida, offers a compelling case for exploring different developmental stages to reveal enhanced cosmetic properties. The lifecycle of Undaria pinnatifida is particularly intriguing, featuring two distinct morphological forms: the macroscopic large,
October 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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