SKIN CARE
93
Erythema intra-group analysis
200 160 120 80 40 0
**** **** ns ***
200 160 120 80 40 0
Erythema inter-group analysis
ns ** **
50 40 30 20 10 0
TEWL intra-group analysis
** *** ns ns
60 40 20 0
TEWL inter-group analysis
ns * *
Test
Control
T0
T30 mins
T2 hrs
Test
Control
T0
T30 mins
T2 hrs
Figure 3: Soothing activity test on healthy volunteers: evaluation of the decrease in redness (erythema) and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). E values measured with Mexameter. TEWL values measured with Tewameter TM300. P values refer to a statistically significant variation: 0.1234 (ns=not significative), 0.0332 (*), 0.0021 (**), 0.0002 (***), <0.0001 (****)
Anti-redness and barrier-repairing activity The hydrolysed vegetable protein ingredient was formulated in a base hydrogel and applied to the forearms of 20 volunteers. A chemical irritation was first induced using SLS as irritant. Two key indicators of skin health were then measured: redness (quantified using the E-parameter, or Erythema) and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). The results were analysed in comparison to a placebo. The results showed that application of the
product led to a reduction in redness by 53% after 30 minutes and by 65% after two hours. Similarly, trans-epidermal water loss decreased by 46% and 60% over the same time intervals. Results were statistically significant both inter and intra-group for the two analysed parameters (Figure 3).
Among the few peptides with soothing
activity used in cosmetics, this polypeptide stands out for effectiveness and rapid action. The best-know peptide with clinically proven soothing activity is palmitoyl tripeptide-8,12
but
unlike this peptide, which shows results after two days, the hydrolysed vegetable protein works within just two hours. Compared to plant-based actives that require several days to be effective,13,14
Hydrolysed
vegetable protein proves both faster and more potent activity, making it a promising and sustainable innovation in the field of dermocosmetics.
Slow-ageing activity Since inflammation is also a contributing factor to skin ageing,9
a test was carried out to assess
the potential anti-ageing effects of the product. In this case, the same hydrogel containing the hydrolysed vegetable protein was applied to the faces of 20 volunteers twice a day for 28 days. At the end of the four-week period, the
skin roughness and appearance of forehead wrinkles were analysed. Additionally, volunteers provided a personal opinion on the product efficacy. In this case, the results were not compared to a placebo, as the base hydrogel did not contain any other active
www.personalcaremagazine.com October 2025 PERSONAL CARE
∆ E index T0 T30 mins T2 hrs T0 T30 mins T2 hrs ∆ E index Test Control Test Control Test Control ∆ g/m2 T0 T30 mins T2 hrs T0 T30 mins T2 hrs ∆ g/m2 Test Control Test Control Test Control h
-46% -60%
h
-53% -65%
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