SCALP CARE
Therapeutic targets for a healthy scalp
Laia Sallan – Special Chemicals
Scalp health has gained increasing attention in cosmetic science, as research continues to highlight its crucial role in hair growth, follicular function, and overall hair quality. Unlike traditional hair care, which often focuses on the hair shaft, modern scalp treatments aim to target the biological and physiological factors affecting the scalp environment. These include sebum regulation, hydration, inflammation control, and hair follicle stimulation, all being therapeutic targets that can significantly influence hair density, strength, and longevity. A well-balanced scalp provides an optimal
environment for hair follicles, preventing common concerns such as excessive shedding, thinning, dandruff, or seborrheic conditions. Various cosmetic active ingredients have been developed to address these issues, leveraging advancements in biotechnology, bioengineering, and dermatological research. From lipid-based hydration systems to bioactive peptides that support follicle regeneration, the field has evolved toward a more evidence-based approach. In this article, we will explore the key
therapeutic targets for scalp care—specifically, solutions for hair loss, sebum control, and scalp hydration—by examining scientifically validated cosmetic ingredients and formulation strategies. The discussion will focus on the biochemical mechanisms behind these interventions and the latest innovations in active ingredient development.
Hair loss: causes and solutions Hair loss, or alopecia, is a complex condition influenced by various internal and external factors. Understanding these underlying causes is crucial for developing effective therapeutic strategies. One primary factor is hormonal imbalances,
particularly involving dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a derivative of testosterone. Elevated DHT levels bind to androgen receptors in hair follicles,1
leading to their miniaturization and
a shortened hair growth cycle. This process results in thinner hair strands and eventual follicular dormancy. Both men and women can experience DHT-related hair loss, though the patterns may differ. Oxidative stress also plays a significant
role in hair loss. The accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) can damage cellular components, including those in hair follicles.
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Factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and metabolic processes contribute to oxidative stress, impairing hair growth and leading to follicular degeneration. Chronic, low-grade inflammation around hair
follicles, known as microinflammation, can disrupt normal hair cycling.2
This microinflammatory
environment often accompanies oxidative stress and can exacerbate follicular damage, hindering healthy hair growth. Adequate blood flow is essential for
delivering nutrients and oxygen to hair follicles. Compromised scalp microcirculation can starve follicles of essential nutrients, leading to weakened hair structure and increased shedding. Hair loss can be categorized as temporary
or permanent. Temporary hair loss, such as telogen effluvium, arises from factors like stress, nutritional deficiencies, or hormonal fluctuations and is often reversible.3
In
contrast, permanent hair loss, like androgenetic alopecia, involves genetic predispositions and progressive follicular miniaturization, requiring targeted interventions. Addressing hair loss requires a multifaceted
approach, targeting various underlying mechanisms. Several active ingredients have demonstrated efficacy through distinct pathways.
DHT blockers ■ Botanical extracts: Cucurbita pepo seed extract is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins,
and minerals, which contribute to its potential in inhibiting 5-alpha-reductase, the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone to DHT. This inhibition can help reduce hair follicle miniaturization associated with androgenetic alopecia.4 ■ Peptides: Specific peptides can interfere with DHT binding to follicular receptors, thereby mitigating its adverse effects on hair follicles.
Circulation boosters ■ Caffeine: Topically applied caffeine penetrates the scalp and stimulates hair follicles by enhancing microcirculation. It also extends the anagen phase of the hair cycle.5 ■ Flavonoids: Apigenin, a naturally occurring flavonoid found in various plants, like chamomile, stimulates dermal papilla cell proliferation and increases VEGF expression, improving blood circulation and nutrient delivery to hair follicles for stronger, healthier hair.6
Anti-inflammatory agents ■ Polyphenols: Ellagic acid, a polyphenol found in fruits like pomegranates and berries, can exhibit potent antioxidant and anti- inflammatory properties, protecting hair follicles from oxidative damage.7 ■ Curcuminoids: Tetrahydrocurcumin, a hydrogenated derivative of curcumin, exhibits potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.8
By reducing oxidative stress and October 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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