MARINE INGREDIENTS
macroalgae cells, followed by unialgal culture and subsequent scale-up in photobioreactors. This controlled cultivation environment
offers numerous advantages: it ensures stable production, unaffected by external environmental conditions, and eliminates concerns about soil and water contamination from traditional agricultural pesticides. Furthermore, it provides access to rare
biomass that might be difficult or unsustainable to harvest from the wild, thereby preventing overexploitation of natural resources. This biotechnological approach not only enriches our understanding of algal biodiversity and phytochemistry but also facilitates the discovery of novel or previously unknown bioactive compounds, leading to truly differentiated cosmetic ingredients.
Demonstration of the resulting Undaria pinnatifida gametophyte extract’s anti-oxidant efficacy The efficacy of the Undaria pinnatifida gametophyte extract, derived from the highly active gametophyte stage via Celebrity technology, has been demonstrated through in vivo clinical evaluations. A study involving 20 healthy Caucasian volunteers assessed the anti-oxidant capacity of the skin using the FRAP (ferric-reducing antioxidant parameter) method, a technique commonly employed for evaluating antioxidant power in biological samples. Volunteers applied a 1% formulation
containing the Undaria pinnatifida gametophyte extract twice daily on their thighs for 28 days, compared against a placebo formulation and a non-treated zone. The results demonstrated that after 28
days of treatment, the skin treated with the Undaria pinnatifida gametophyte extract showed a significant increase of +15% in its anti- oxidant capacity compared to baseline. This improvement was also statistically significant when compared to both the placebo and the non-treated zone. Furthermore, the study investigated the
skin’s ability to recover from oxidative stress. On day 28, a UVA stress was applied, and residual oxidation was measured 24 hours later (on day 29) without further product application. The skin treated with Undaria pinnatifida gametophyte extract for 28 days exhibited a significantly better recovering response to oxidative stress, with lower lipoperoxidation compared to non-treated skin. These results demonstrate that the Undaria
pinnatifida gametophyte extract effectively reinforces the skin’s intrinsic antioxidant
25 20 15 10 5 0
Non treated skin after 28 days Treated skin with Undaria pinnatifida gametophyte extract
after 28 days (significant reduction versus non treated skin p=0.002)
Figure 3: In vivo anti-oxidant capacity of the skin after 28 days of Undaria pinnatifida gametophyte extract obtained thanks to the Celebrity technology
defences, offering long-term protection against environmental aggressors. Beyond sustainable sourcing and innovative cultivation, the efficacy of algal ingredients is significantly amplified by advanced extraction technologies.
An advanced eco-extraction leveraging phytochemistry for highly efficient and concentrated algal extract Targeted isolation of glycolipids (predominantly SQDG) from Himanthalia elongata The selection of Himanthalia elongata as a primary source for an advanced eco- extraction process is rooted deeply in its unique phytochemical profile and its adaptation to its natural habitat. Experiments conducted on plants in the
International Space Station revealed that in the absence of gravity, plants struggled to maintain their structural integrity, leading to disorganized growth. This disorganization was supported with the under- or over-regulation of proteins, specifically those involved in SQDG synthesis, a molecule critical for maintaining cohesive plant structure. This insight led to identifying SQDG as a key molecule of interest for reinforcing skin architecture and combating sagging. Moreover, this brown algae thrives in the dynamic and often turbulent intertidal zones of the Atlantic coast, enduring constant
exposure to strong waves and currents. Such a harsh environment necessitates the synthesis of robust protective compounds to maintain its structural integrity and resilience. It is precisely this environmental pressure that drives Himanthalia elongata to produce a high concentration of specialized metabolites, particularly glycolipids of the SQDG family. A comprehensive phytochemical screening
confirmed Himanthalia elongata’s superior yield of these crucial polar lipids compared to other algal species. These nutritional and adaptogenic properties provide a strong rationale for its selection, indicating a natural abundance of beneficial compounds that can be effectively translated into cosmetic benefits for skin firmness and anti-ageing.
Methodology for maximizing extract concentration and functional efficacy: the patented Coeur d’Algue ecoprocess Traditional extraction methods, such as aqueous extraction, organic solvent extraction, and multi-step purification, often come with inherent drawbacks. Aqueous extraction is limited to polar compounds and can be energy- intensive if heating is required. Organic solvent extraction, while
accessing less polar compounds, necessitates reprocessing of solvents and can have a greater environmental impact due to its
On D28: we apply a UVA stress & no Undaria pinnatifida gametophyte extract treatment. 24 hours later: measurement of residual oxidations. (% variation D29-D28 of basal lipoperoxidation)
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Figure 4: Seppic-patented Coeur d’Algue eco-process
www.personalcaremagazine.com October 2025 PERSONAL CARE
(% variation D29-D28 of basal lipoperoxidation
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