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Volume 26 Issue 9 WWW.PERSONALCAREMAGAZINE.COM


CONTENTS


3


REGULARS 5


6 9


Editor’s Comment Cover Story: Ashland News


108 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers


FEATURES


16 Interview: Growing new shoots Òscar Expósito is the co-founder, chief executive and chief scientific officer of Spanish plant-based cosmetic active ingredient maker Vytrus Biotech. Here, in conversation with editor Tim Probert, Òscar shares his vision for the Barcelona company and the cosmetic active ingredients of the future


21


of beauty science A ten-page preview of the 2025 edition of one of the world’s leading personal care ingredient trade shows, which returns to the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC) in Thailand on 4-6 November. The preview includes highlights from the show floor


36 Enzymatic esterification: chemistry


reimagined Oleon explains why enzymatic technology is central to its vision for a future where chemistry is not a source of pollution but a driver of sustainability – with safer, cleaner, and more energy-efficient alternatives to traditional methods


41 Biomimetic avocado-derived


exosomes In the ever-evolving world of skin care innovation, one of the most promising advances is the use of exosome-based delivery systems for active ingredients. Nanovex Biotechnologies describes a biomimetic avocado-derived exosome encapsulating bakuchiol for anti-ageing skin care


47 Upcycled citrus polyphenol


for beauty from within Nagase Viita reveals the results of studies into glucosyl hesperidin both by topical application and oral intake and highlights the potential to deliver synergistic benefits inside and outside the body


in-cosmetics Asia: driving the future 53 Preventing UV damage with 77 Algal biodiversity for advanced


copper chelation Innospec describes a hair care ingredient shown to prevent damage to the hair fibre from UV radiation. It does this by reducing the copper content in the hair fibre, removing the ability of copper to participate in the degradation of hydrogen peroxide, which is formed in the hair during the UV exposure of amino acids.


59 Biotech active for eye contour


renewal Roelmi HPC demonstrates the efficacy of a high-performance solution for advanced eye contour care by presenting the design and the development of a specific biotechnological active ingredient through precision fermentation of upcycled Vitis vinifera leaf extracts


63 Abyssinian complex for


next-gen pre-wash hair care By nourishing and shielding the hair at the earliest stage of the routine, pre-wash care helps maintain moisture, improves manageability, and preserves softness and shine after cleansing. Natura-Tec describes treatments formulated with high- performance natural ingredients, including esters derived from Abyssinian oil, that respond to a wide range of needs - from hydration and frizz control to colour protection and scalp comfort


67 Seaweed-derived extract for


dark spot treatment Ínclita Seaweed Solutions explores the science behind seaweed-derived ingredients, focusing on their role in anti-dark spot treatments, their proven efficacy, and their sustainable production processes


71 Therapeutic targets for a healthy scalp Special Chemicals explores the key therapeutic targets for scalp care—specifically, solutions for hair loss, sebum control, and scalp hydration—by examining scientifically validated cosmetic ingredients and formulation strategies. The discussion focuses on the biochemical mechanisms behind these interventions and the latest innovations in active ingredient development


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October 2025 PERSONAL CARE


formulation Seppic delves into the technical advancements leveraging marine resources to meet these market needs, exploring how targeted approaches, from selecting rare species with potent properties to employing sophisticated extraction technologies, are crucial for unlocking their full cosmetic potential


83 Strategies for stratum corneum


dysfunction Professor Genji Imokawa of the Centre for Bioscience Research & Education at Japan’s Utsunomiya University describes the mechanisms of stratum corneum dysfunction in atopic dermatitis and skincare strategies for its improvement


91 Plant polypeptides for inflamed skin Transactiva has developed two innovative plant- derived polypeptides using sustainable plant molecular farming. These cosmeceuticals ingredients target sensitive and inflamed skin, with the first showing particularly impressive clinical results: a 65% reduction in redness and 60% less water loss within just two hours, surpassing standard peptides


97 Fungal biotechnology for boosting


sunscreen Maicelium Biomaterials, an Israeli startup based in Tel Aviv, has developed fungal-derived biopolymers for cosmetic brands and formulators to use as an alternative to petroleum-based synthetic polymers, offering a sustainable and effective option for the sun care industry


103 Boosting botox treatments


with peptide active Lubrizol reveals clinical trial results that showed a


combination of botulinum toxin type-A (botox) and a novel peptide led to a substantial reduction in the visibility of wrinkles on the upper face, including the forehead, frown lines, and crow’s feet, even up to four months post-treatment


16


47


71


97


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