72 SCALP CARE
inflammation in the scalp environment, it creates favourable conditions for hair follicle health. ■ Prebiotics: By promoting a balanced scalp microbiome, prebiotics can reduce inflammation and create a healthier environment for hair growth. Integrating these active ingredients into
hair care formulations offers a comprehensive approach to combating hair loss. By simultaneously targeting hormonal, circulatory, oxidative, and inflammatory pathways, such multi-faceted treatments can effectively promote scalp health and stimulate hair growth.
Sebum control for scalp health Sebum, an oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands, plays a fundamental role in maintaining scalp and hair health. Composed of lipids such as triglycerides, fatty acids, squalene, and cholesterol, sebum serves as a natural conditioner, providing lubrication and moisture to both the scalp and hair strands. This protective layer prevents dryness, shields against external environmental factors, and helps maintain the scalp’s pH balance, thereby supporting a healthy microbiome. However, an overproduction of sebum can
lead to several scalp and hair issues. Excessive sebum accumulation may result in a greasy scalp, which can trap dirt, dead skin cells, and product residues, leading to clogged hair follicles. This environment becomes conducive to the proliferation of microorganisms, potentially causing conditions like dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Moreover, an overly oily scalp can make hair appear limp and lifeless, affecting its overall aesthetic appeal. To address sebum overproduction, various
active ingredients have been identified for their efficacy in regulating sebaceous gland activity:
Zinc PCA (Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) This zinc salt combines the antimicrobial properties of zinc with PCA’s moisturizing effects. Zinc PCA effectively inhibits 5-alpha- reductase,9
an enzyme linked to sebum
production, thereby reducing oiliness. Additionally, it exhibits antibacterial properties, targeting acne-causing bacteria, and offers anti-inflammatory benefits, making it suitable for sensitive scalps.
Biotin (Vitamin B7) Essential for keratin production, biotin supports hair strength and health.10
While its direct
role in sebum regulation is less pronounced, adequate biotin levels ensure the scalp’s overall wellbeing, indirectly promoting balanced sebum production.
Prebiotics These compounds nourish beneficial microorganisms on the scalp, fostering a balanced microbiome. A healthy microbial environment can deter pathogenic bacteria and fungi, potentially normalizing sebum production and preventing scalp disorders linked to oiliness.
Salicylic acid A beta-hydroxy acid renowned for its exfoliating
PERSONAL CARE October 2025
properties, salicylic acid penetrates oily follicles, dissolving sebum and preventing clogging. Its keratolytic action aids in shedding dead skin cells, maintaining clear pores, and reducing dandruff associated with excess oil. Formulating scalp care products with these
ingredients requires careful consideration. Zinc PCA, being water-soluble, integrates seamlessly into aqueous formulations like shampoos and serums. Biotin, stable and compatible with various formulations, can be incorporated into conditioners and masks. Prebiotics should be selected based on their stability and compatibility with other actives to ensure efficacy. Salicylic acid’s concentration must be
optimized to balance exfoliation without causing scalp irritation; typically, concentrations between 0.5% to 2% are effective yet gentle, always keeping in mind the regulatory restrictions. Maintaining balanced sebum levels is crucial
for overall scalp health and hair quality. Proper sebum regulation ensures a clean, non-greasy scalp environment, minimizing the risk of microbial overgrowth and inflammation. This balance promotes optimal conditions for hair follicles, supporting healthy hair growth and imparting a natural sheen to hair strands. On the contrary, unregulated sebum
production can lead to scalp disorders and compromised hair vitality, underscoring the importance of targeted scalp care formulations.
Scalp hydration and barrier function The scalp’s health is also intricately linked to its hydration levels and the integrity of its barrier function. A well-hydrated scalp ensures optimal conditions for hair follicles, promoting robust hair growth and overall hair quality. On the other hand, compromised scalp
hydration can lead to dryness, flaking, and increased sensitivity, potentially resulting in conditions like dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis. The scalp’s barrier function, primarily constituted by the stratum corneum and its lipid matrix, acts as a protective shield against environmental aggressors and prevents excessive transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Disruptions to this barrier can increase the TEWL, leading to dehydration and making the scalp more susceptible to irritants and microbial invasion. To maintain and restore scalp hydration
and reinforce its barrier function, several key ingredients have been identified for their efficacy:
Hyaluronic acid (HA) A widely known naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan, HA possesses a remarkable ability to retain water (up to 1,000 times its weight) making it a superior hydrating agent. When applied to the scalp, HA enhances moisture retention in the extracellular matrix, ensuring that the scalp remains elastic and hydrated. This hydration supports the scalp’s elasticity and resilience, creating a conducive environment for healthy hair growth.
Ceramides These lipid molecules are fundamental components of the skin’s outmost layer, accounting for approximately 50% of its composition. Ceramides play a crucial role in forming a protective barrier that locks in moisture and shields against environmental damage. Incorporating ceramides into scalp care products can help restore this barrier, leading to improved hydration and reduced dryness. Additionally, they reinforce the hair cuticle, minimizing breakage and enhancing shine.
Phospholipids As major constituents of cell membranes, phospholipids possess amphiphilic properties, allowing them to attract and retain water. When applied topically, they form lamellar structures that mimic the skin’s natural lipid layers, enhancing barrier function and moisture retention. This reinforcement of the scalp’s lipid matrix helps prevent dehydration and maintains overall scalp health.
Postbiotics Metabolic by-products of probiotic bacteria, postbiotics have garnered attention for their role in skin health. They contribute to maintaining the scalp’s microbiome balance, which is essential for a healthy barrier function. Postbiotics can enhance the production of natural moisturizing factors, improve skin elasticity, and bolster the scalp’s defence mechanisms against pathogens. By supporting the microbiome, they indirectly promote optimal scalp hydration and barrier integrity. Scientific research underscores the significance
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112
