MARINE INGREDIENTS
Seaweed-derived extract for dark spot treatment
Ana Catarina Guedes, Caroline Deina, Catarina Ricca, Helena Amaro - Ínclita Seaweed Solutions
The cosmetics industry is undergoing a transformative shift, driven by the dual demands of efficacy and sustainability. Consumers are no longer satisfied with products that merely deliver visible results; they seek solutions that align with their values, particularly those that minimize environmental impact. As a powerful and sustainable alternative
to conventional synthetic actives, seaweed has emerged as a game-changing option by being a renewable and highly efficient source of bioactive compounds, particularly for skin care. Among its various applications, seaweed’s
bioactives role in skin tone regulation and dark spot reduction has garnered significant attention. One example is the ingredient InAlgae® LIT formulated with Ascophyllum nodosum extract, developed by the marine biotechnology company Ínclita Seaweed Solutions (ISS). Specifically created for the cosmetics
industry, this ingredient effectively controls dark spots while providing skin-calming properties. These attributes make seaweed-derived actives particularly suitable for promoting skin tone uniformity, reducing redness, and addressing overall skin tone irregularities. This article explores the science behind
seaweed-derived ingredients, focusing on their role in anti-dark spot treatments, their proven efficacy, and their sustainable production processes. By examining the latest research and market trends, ISS aims to highlight how seaweed is revolutionizing the cosmetics industry, offering a powerful and low-carbon footprint alternative to traditional ingredients.
Anti-dark spot properties: skin tone uniformity Dark spots occur when melanin production becomes dysregulated, often due to excessive sun exposure, inflammation, or hormonal fluctuations. The process is primarily caused by an overproduction of melanin, deregulating the normal melanogenesis process. The enzyme tyrosinase plays a central
role in this process, by being a catalyst for the conversion of tyrosine into melanin. By inhibiting tyrosinase activity, it is possible to control melanin production and reduce the appearance of dark spots. Seaweed-derived extracts, particularly those
from species rich in polyphenols and sulfated polysaccharides, have shown significant potential as natural tyrosinase inhibitors.
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Ascophyllum nodosum
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Among these, the ingredient developed from Ascophyllum nodosum extract has been identified as an excellent source of bioactive compounds with anti-pigmenting properties. In vitro assays indicate that extracts
from this species exhibit superior tyrosinase inhibition compared to common synthetic alternatives such as ascorbic acid and natural counterparts like kojic acid. Beyond enzymatic inhibition, this
Ascophyllum nodosum-derived ingredient possesses potent antioxidant activity, neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can trigger melanogenesis. Additionally, its anti-inflammatory effects help mitigate post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH),
a common cause of persistent dark spots following skin irritation or injury.
Anti-inflammatory properties: reducing redness and skin irritation Inflammation is a key contributor to skin redness and irritation, particularly in sensitive or reactive skin types. Seaweed-derived bioactives have demonstrated potent anti-inflammatory properties, helping to reduce erythema, irritation, and discomfort. Polyphenols and sulfated polysaccharides
found in Ascophyllum nodosum act on multiple inflammatory pathways by inhibiting the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines. The extract works by neutralizing excess nitric oxide, a free radical involved in the inflammatory process. As a result, the ingredient developed from
Ascophyllum nodosum is particularly beneficial not only for reducing redness but also for providing a calming effect, making it suitable for individuals with conditions like rosacea or atopic dermatitis. Additionally, the soothing properties of
seaweed bioactives make them ideal for post- treatment skin care, particularly after exfoliating procedures such as chemical peels and laser therapy. Their ability to accelerate skin recovery while reducing inflammation enhances their value in formulations for sensitive skin.
October 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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