86 SKIN CARE ****
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6 0 6
40 30 20 10 0
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Figure 6: Effects on corneocyte size, skin excoriation, and Nile red staining in tape-stripped SC.28 A: Corneocyte size, n = 25, ***p<0.001 compared to week 0. Data was analysed using the Wilcoxon signed-rank test and are presented as mean ± SD. B: Skin excoriation, n = 25, ****p<0.0001 compared to week 0. Data was analysed using a paired t-test and are presented as mean ± SD. C: Nile red staining, n = 25, *p<0.05 compared to week 0. Data was analysed using a paired t-test and are presented as mean ± SD
capable of forming lamellar structures, e.g. CER20,23
may be more effective in enhancing SC
water retention compared to those lacking such structural properties (e.g. HIRU and urea).
Conclusion In this clinical trial, daily application of 10% POLG nano-emulsion for three and six weeks significantly improved symptoms such as dryness, scaling, pruritus, and stinging sensations on non-lesional skin of AD (AD) patients. After three weeks, clinical outcomes were: 12% marked, 8% moderate, 72% slight, and 8% no improvement; at six weeks: 12%, 40.4%, 44%, and 4%, respectively. These results demonstrate favourable
efficacy comparable to pseudo-ceramide and HIRU lotion. Dermatologist assessments confirmed improvements in dryness and pruritus, and capacitance measurements showed increased hydration. However, TEWL did not improve, likely due to the inclusion of mild AD patients with near-normal baseline TEWL (<10 g/m2
/hr) or the limited
barrier-forming ability of POLG compared to acylceramides.22 This trial confirmed the efficacy of POLG nano-emulsion primarily through enhancement of SC hydration, restoring mildly affected skin to near-healthy levels. Notably, improvements in scaling, stinging, and pruritus were observed at both three and six weeks. Visio scan data supported these findings,
showing reduced roughness (SESC) and improved smoothness (SESM). Scaling improvement was also associated with larger corneocytes, suggesting reduced epidermal turnover, decreased scratch marks, and enhanced lipid envelope formation. During the six-week period, spanning
autumn to winter when skin dryness increases, SC hydration rose by 199.7% from baseline. This suggests that POLG promotes lamellar structure formation, binding water in a non-evaporative state. Overall, POLG nano-emulsion likely accelerates lamellar structure development
PERSONAL CARE October 2025 A ****
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25 20 15 10 5 0
3 Week 6 0 B **** ** *
3 Week
Figure 7: Effects of POLG nano-emulsion on skin hydration and TEWL.28. A: Skin hydration (Capacitance), n = 25. All data were analysed using Tukey’s multiple comparison test and are presented as mean ± SD. B: Barrier function (TEWL), n=25. All data was analysed using Dunn’s multiple comparison test and are presented as mean ± SD. **p<0.01, ****p<0.0001 compared to week 0
between corneocytes, improving water retention and reducing scaling. Previous trials using CER creams and HIRU
lotion showed that improvements in scaling and pruritus were linked to increases in both hydration and barrier function (TEWL),12,30 suggesting that both are key for symptom relief. In contrast, this study demonstrated that POLG improved these symptoms via hydration alone, without enhancing TEWL, implying that water retention plays a more vital role than barrier repair in relieving scaling and pruritus in mild AD. Barrier dysfunction in atopic dry skin is more
closely tied to sensitivity to external irritants and allergens, such as sweat and mite antigens. PAS (photoacoustic spectroscopy) studies revealed that penetration of hydrophilic substances slightly correlates with TEWL and parallels AD severity,33
serum IgE levels, which are elevated in ˜80% of AD patients.34
showing significant association with This suggests that barrier
impairment increases susceptibility to allergic inflammation triggered by water-soluble
allergens in sweat. In conclusion, this study demonstrated that
POLG nano-emulsion effectively alleviates atopic dry skin symptoms, especially scaling and pruritus, by improving SC hydration via lamellar structure formation, even without enhancing barrier function beyond normal. These findings offer guidance for skin care development, indicating that lamellar-forming agents— regardless of being ceramide derivatives—may be useful for treating mild AD. The ability to relieve dry skin in non-lesional
areas can serve as a marker of moisturizing efficacy. Furthermore, agents effective on atopic dry skin may also be beneficial for non-atopic conditions such as senile xerosis or detergent- induced dryness, providing a broader basis for moisturizer evaluation.
References 1. Imokawa G. Int J Mol Sci. 2021; 22 2. Imokawa G. Book Publisher International: London, UK 2021; 1: 2-45
www.personalcaremagazine.com
6
PC
Corneocyte (µm2
)
Water Content (Capacitance)
Thick abrasion (%)
TEWL (g/m2
h)
Nile Red Staining Index (A.U)
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