64 HAIR CARE
a potentially irritating shampoo. It is therefore particularly suitable for sensitive scalps, those prone to itching, or individuals transitioning to a more natural hair care routine.
Natural ingredient for pre-wash Origin and composition The ingredient is a 100% natural-origin ingredient derived from Abyssinian oil (Crambe abyssinica). Rich in erucic acid, it offers a light, non-greasy texture and strong film-forming properties. Transformed into cosmetic esters, this unique active combine high sensoriality, protective performance, and environmental compatibility. Aligned with market expectations, the complex is: ■ Biodegradable ■ Free from silicones, PEGs, and sulfates ■ Vegan and cruelty-free ■ Sourced from traceable plant origins with low environmental impact. ■ Compatible with minimalist and waterless formulations thanks to its stable, versatile structure ■ Highly resistant to oxidation and suitable for high-temperature processes These features make the Abyssinian complex
a go-to solution for brands seeking both performance and eco-responsibility.
Compelling studies supporting pre- wash care Several studies conducted on treated hair have shown a drastic improvement in elasticity following repeated application of the treatment with up to +191% increase in hair suppleness observed after twelve wash cycles. This result is particularly significant in the
context of a pre-wash treatment, as it confirms that the hair fibre is strengthened before cleansing, thereby reducing the risk of breakage during brushing or drying. By reinforcing the hair’s structural resilience
ahead of the washing step, the active helps prevent the typical weakening caused by water absorption and surfactant exposure. In addition to its protective action, the active
also delivers visible results from the very first uses: ■ Hair treated with the ingredient gains up to 50% more shine, revealing a natural radiance that appears revived from within. ■ Thanks to its film-forming lipid structure, the Abyssinian and phytosterol ester complex gently smooths the cuticle, allowing for even light reflection without weighing down or greasing the hair fibre. ■ When integrated into a pre-wash routine, it instantly revives dull or damaged hair, frequently stressed by repeated washing, and provides a silky, luminous finish. This sensorial improvement not only
enhances the visual appearance of hair but also boosts perceived hair quality from the first application. But the benefits go beyond visible beauty.
Its instant conditioning effect makes detangling easier while delivering a natural volume boost particularly valued by fine, flat, or tired hair. Applied before shampooing, it envelops
PERSONAL CARE October 2025
the fibre in an invisible, lightweight veil that prepares the hair for cleansing without compromising its structure. This pre-coating effect helps preserve
internal hydration and reduces friction during the shampoo step, contributing to smoother, more manageable hair post-wash. Studies also highlight another key dimension
of hair care: thermal protection. Thanks to its high-temperature stability,
it forms a true protective shield against heat damage from styling tools up to 230°C. When used as part of a pre-wash treatment, it becomes a powerful ally in routines that involve blow-drying, straightening, or heat styling after washing, ensuring optimal preservation of the hair fibre against thermal stress. Unlike traditional heat protectants applied
post-wash, this ingredient offers preventive protection, reducing cumulative damage over time.
Finally, this active ingredient stands out
as a top choice for colour-treated hair or hair exposed to environmental stressors. Tests have shown that it helps preserve pigment intensity against UV rays and seawater, two common factors responsible for colour fading. Integrated into a pre-wash routine, it acts
as a comprehensive protective treatment, preparing the hair for external conditions even before water touches the strands. It is also important to highlight its moisturizing properties, which are often overlooked in traditional hair care routines. Although measured on the skin, its hydration
performance with a +60% increase observed after just five days makes it perfectly suited for the scalp, which is frequently sensitized by
repeated shampooing. Applied as a pre-treatment, it helps
rebalance and nourish the root area, contributing to improved overall scalp and hair health. A healthy scalp environment is essential
for long-term hair vitality, and this ingredient’s ability to hydrate and protect the skin barrier offers an added layer of care in pre-wash formulations. By integrating scalp care and fibre care in
a single gesture, this ingredient supports a holistic, future-forward approach to hair care At the heart of the formulation in Table 1, our
active plays the central role, delivering effective fibre protection, targeted nourishment, and an instant smoothing effect. Its natural richness in erucic acid enables it
to form a non-occlusive protective film, while sustainably enhancing the hair’s shine and suppleness. The resulting texture is rich but not greasy,
offering smooth application and easy rinsing. This treatment is used as a protective pre-
mask, to be left on for ten to 30 minutes before shampooing, delivering instant results: hair that is smooth, shiny, hydrated — and above all, visibly healthier after washing. This formulation embodies our vision of modern hair care: clean, effective, sensorial, and designed with respect for both the hair fibre and the scalp. This pre-wash routine is particularly well-
suited for curly, coily, or kinky hair types, whose natural structure makes them more prone to breakage and dryness. These hair textures have a real need for protection before shampooing, in order to
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