EYE AREA CARE
Biotech active for eye contour renewal
Giuliana Graziadio, Stefania Zanzottera - Roelmi HPC ABSTRACT
Biotech-derived ingredients represent a new frontier in the world of cosmetics, where the synergy between science and nature can redefine the concept of efficacy, with a particular focus on sustainability. The paper aims at demonstrating the efficacy of a high-performance solution for advanced eye contour care by presenting the design and the development of a specific biotechnological active ingredient through precision fermentation of upcycled Vitis vinifera leaf extracts. Thanks to the precious molecules of interest contained in this active ingredient, it offers 360° action on the delicate eye contour area, reducing dark circles, puffiness and signs of ageing, restoring radiance to your eyes
The beauty and personal care industry is undergoing a profound transformation, driven by a growing demand for science-based, sustainable, and high-performing solutions. In this dynamic context, biotechnology has emerged as a cornerstone of innovation, reshaping the way active ingredients are sourced, developed, and applied and as a key driver for next-generation product development. The global fermentation market is growing
rapidly, valued at $116.39 billion in 2023.1 Meanwhile, the biotech cosmetic ingredients sector reached $2.17 billion in 2023 and is expected to grow at a solid annual growth rate of 7.8%, showing strong demand for innovative, science-based beauty solutions.2 This trend reflects a paradigm shift in
cosmetic science: efficacy and safety must now be substantiated by mechanistic evidence, while environmental impact must be minimized throughout the supply chain. Moreover, biofermentation can completely support the principles of the circular bioeconomy. Agro-industrial byproducts can be
repurposed as substrates for microbial growth, transforming low-value residues into high-performance actives. This valorisation reduces waste, minimizes the need for land- intensive cultivation of new raw materials, and significantly lowers the carbon footprint of ingredient production. Beyond sustainability, biofermentation opens avenues for functional innovation.
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Through metabolic engineering and strain selection, microorganisms can be directed to produce rare or novel bioactive molecules, expanding the functional palette available to the cosmetic industry. These capabilities are particularly valuable for addressing complex skin concerns—such as hyperpigmentation, glycation-related ageing, and oxidative stress—where multi-mechanistic, scientifically substantiated solutions are increasingly demanded by both consumers and regulators.
The precision fermentation Among biotechnological processes, precision fermentation stands out as a new perspective for cosmetic ingredient development. The term ‘biofermentation’ refers specifically to the use of microorganisms from various origin -such as bacteria, yeasts, or fungi -to produce beneficial substances for humans. These include biomasses, enzymes, metabolites, recombinant molecules, and bio-transformed products used in various industries.4 There are two main types of fermentation.
The first is natural fermentation, where the microorganisms are already present in the raw material. The second is controlled fermentation (also known as precision fermentation), which uses selected starter cultures with a high concentration of specific microorganisms to guide the process more precisely.5 Precision fermentation, inspired by natural
processes and supported by modern molecular and cellular biology, allows the production of
ingredients with high bioavailability and proven benefits for the skin. Today’s focus goes beyond appearance—each ingredient must also have scientific evidence supporting its safety and effectiveness. This evolution reflects a shift in consumer expectations: people now look for real results, supported by innovation and science.3
Within this framework, fermented
ingredients are becoming a key trend in advanced cosmetics. They represent the meeting point between nature and science, offering a new standard for efficacy in skin care. At Roelmi HPC, the extensive knowledge in
biofermentation procedures led to the creation of a fine-tuned process able to elevate the benefits of the standard one. The corporate methodology is based on the following pillars. ■ Control of the process: permitting to operate in each step of the process ■ Strain-specific strategy: a proprietary microorganism – fully characterized in terms of taxonomy and efficacy – is used as optimized bacterial culture medium. It reflects the ability of the company in selecting the most correct microorganism to obtain pure metabolites. ■ Upcycling-based vision: by enhancing the plant base matrixes or by-products from food industries to obtain new ingredients (biomass & supernatant) giving a “new life” to waste compounds. ■ Short supply chain: by using Mediterranean sources, the company pursues a circular economy model where the protection and
October 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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