84 SKIN CARE
and multilamellar architecture is vital for barrier repair.22 To overcome limitations, a synthetic
pseudo-ceramide (pCer), N-(3-hexadecyloxy- 2-hydroxypropyl)-N-2-hydroxyethyl hexadecanamide, was developed. It forms multilamellar vesicles in water and water- retaining lamellae in SC. Clinical data show topical pCer significantly improves xerosis and increases hydration, with residual pCer forming bound water structures similar to natural ceramides.9,20,23,24
Although pCer improved
hydration, it did not alter TEWL, likely due to near-normal baseline values. pCer’s lamellar liquid crystal formation
enhances moisture retention and possibly barrier function. Studies confirm that ≥3.0% pCer improves dryness in both AD and surfactant-damaged skin,1,19,20,21,23,25
supporting
the hypothesis that lamellar structure is key to therapeutic efficacy.22
Clinical effects of a 10% POLG- containing nano-emulsion on non-lesional skin in AD Natural ceramide, even in its synthetic form, is highly expensive and difficult to incorporate into emulsions, which makes it unsuitable for routine topical use in patients with AD or xerotic skin. Pseudo-ceramide (pCer) presents similar limitations, including high cost, restricted availability, and challenges in formulation. To address these issues, we screened a
variety of compounds and identified Phytosteryl/ Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate (POLG), as a ceramide mimetic moisturizing agent capable of forming multilamellar vesicles and restoring water-retention capacity impaired by treatment with surfactants or organic solvents.26,27 These effects are shown in Figure 1, along
with the corresponding properties of natural ceramide and pseudo-ceramide.19,20,24
POLG
is marketed in Japan by Ajinomoto under the A
5 4 3 2 1
0 0 3 Week 6 ** TABLE 1: COMPOSITION OF CERAMIDE-MIMETIC MOISTURIZING AGENT CONTAINING NANO-EMULSION
■ Water ■ Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate (POLG); 10.0%
■ Glycerin ■ Butylene Glycol ■ Dipropylene Glycol ■ Pentylene Glycol ■ Hydrogenated Lecithin ■ Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract
■ Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate ■ Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid ■ Ceramide 3 ■ Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid ■ Arginine ■ Aspartic Acid
trade name Eldew™ PS-203. It is cost-effective, can be readily incorporated into emulsions at concentrations above 10%, and exhibits low greasiness, which provides advantages over conventional ceramide-mimetic moisturizing agents. In this study, we investigated whether
the topical application of a nano-emulsion containing 10% POLG to atopic dry skin improves both clinical symptoms and SC hydration. The nano-emulsion used in this study was provided by ToverVert, and its formulation is listed in Table 1.
Effects of six-week application of ceramide-mimetic moisturizing agent containing nano-emulsion on skin symptoms in AD patients28 Dermatologists assessed dryness/scaling, erythema, papules, and excoriations using a 1–5 grading scale (1 = none; 2 = slight; 3 = mild, 4 = moderate; 5 = severe). Irritation and itchiness
B
5 4 3 2 1
0 0 3 Week 6 * ****
■ Glycine ■ Alanine ■ Serine ■ Valine ■ Isoleucine ■ Threonine ■ Proline ■ Histidine ■ Phenylalanine ■ Saccharide Isomerate ■ Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract ■ Polyquaternium-51 ■ Lactobacillus Ferment ■ Phenoxyethanol ■ Sodium Lactate
were self-reported using the same scale. The nano-emulsion slightly reduced dryness/scaling at 3 weeks and significantly at six weeks (p<0.01) (Figure 2A). No significant changes were found in erythema, papules, or excoriations at either time point. Irritation (stimulus) improved significantly at three weeks (p<0.001) and six weeks (p<0.0001) (Figure 2B). Itchiness, a key atopic feature, also significantly decreased at three weeks (p<0.05) and six weeks (p<0.0001) (Figure 2C).
Clinical improvement effects of ceramide-mimetic moisturizing agent (POLG) containing nano-emulsion on the skin of patients with AD28 Overall clinical improvement was graded 0–3 (3 = marked, 2= moderate, 1= slight, 0 = none). At three weeks, improvement rates were: 12% marked, 8% moderate, 72% slight, and 8% none. At six weeks: 12%, 40.4%, 44%, and 4%,
C
5 4 3 2 1
0 0 3 Week 6 * ***
5. ■ severe
4. ■ moderate 3. ■ mild 2. ■ slight 1. ■ none
Week 0 0
8 11 6 0
Week 3 0
4 9
12 0
Week 6 0
0 9
16 0
5. ■ severe
4. ■ moderate 3. ■ mild 2. ■ slight 1. ■ none
Week 0 0
4
12 6 3
Week 3 0
0 2
12 11
Week 6 0
0 2 9
14
5. ■ severe
4. ■ moderate 3. ■ mild 2. ■ slight 1. ■ none
Week 0 0
2
10 11 2
Week 3 0
0 4 9
12
Week 6 0
0 2 7
16
Figure 2: Clinical efficacy of ceramide-mimetic moisturizing agent containing nano-emulsion on skin symptoms in patients with AD.28 A: Dryness; B: Stimulus (Irritation); C: Itching. n = 25. *p <0.05, **p<0.01, ***p<0.001, ****p<0.0001 compared to week 0; all data were analysed using Dunn’s multiple comparison test
PERSONAL CARE October 2025
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Dryness
Stimulus
Itching
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