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chitosan generally provides better film-forming properties and improved solubility, while higher molecular weight chitosan may offer enhanced moisture retention. Formulators can work with suppliers to
select the optimal molecular weight distribution for their specific application.
Compatibility with UV filters The interaction between fungal biopolymers and UV filters (both organic and inorganic) must be carefully evaluated. While these biopolymers can enhance the distribution and adherence of UV filters, they should not interfere with the filters’ UV-absorbing or reflecting properties. Compatibility testing and stability studies are essential to ensure the efficacy of the final formulation.
Processing parameters The method of incorporating fungal biopolymers into sun care formulations can affect their performance. Factors such as temperature, shear rate, and order of addition during the manufacturing process can influence the final properties of the product. Optimizing these parameters is crucial for
achieving the desired film-forming, emulsifying, and stabilizing effects.
Environmental benefits and sustainability The environmental benefits of these fungal biopolymers cannot be overstated. Unlike synthetic alternatives, they biodegrade naturally within 3-12 months, contributing to reduced environmental impact. Their production from agricultural by-
products aligns with circular economy principles, offering a sustainable path forward for the cosmetics industry.
Biodegradability The biodegradability of chitosan and beta- glucan is a significant advantage over synthetic polymers. These natural biopolymers can be broken down by microorganisms in the environment, reducing the accumulation of persistent chemicals in ecosystems. This is particularly important for sun care
products, which are often used in aquatic environments. Test studies on chitosan showed
approximately 50% weight loss after eight weeks, indicating excellent biodegradability under soil conditions.
Sustainable production Fungal-derived chitosan and beta-glucan can be produced through fermentation processes using agricultural by-products as feedstock. This approach not only reduces waste but also minimizes the environmental impact associated with the production of these ingredients.6 The use of renewable resources and efficient
bioprocessing techniques aligns with the principles of green chemistry and sustainable manufacturing.
Reduced environmental toxicity Unlike some synthetic polymers that may
PERSONAL CARE October 2025
persist in the environment and potentially harm aquatic life, fungal biopolymers pose minimal risk to ecosystems. Their natural origin and biodegradability mean they are less likely to accumulate in water bodies or contribute to microplastic pollution.
Future developments and opportunities Looking ahead, ongoing developments in fungal biotechnology promise even greater possibilities. Research continues to unveil new ways to enhance the functionality of these biopolymers through controlled bioprocessing, while improving their stability in various formulation types. The growing market for natural and
sustainable sun care products presents significant opportunities for brands looking to differentiate themselves with environmentally responsible innovations. Recent efforts by companies like Maicelium
Biomaterials to optimize the bioprocessing of these fungal biopolymers, in a non-GMO process, have yielded promising results in controlling molecular weight distributions and functional properties. These advances enable formulators to
achieve specific performance characteristics while maintaining the natural and sustainable aspects that consumers increasingly demand. The ability to fine-tune properties through bioprocessing, rather than chemical modification, represents a significant advantage over traditional polymer production methods.
Safety and regulatory considerations Safety assessments and regulatory considerations for these fungal biopolymers demonstrate their viability as alternatives to synthetic materials. Extensive safety data,
combined with their natural origin and history of safe use in cosmetics, supports their regulatory acceptance. Ongoing toxicological studies continue to build the body of evidence supporting their safety and efficacy. Both chitosan and beta-glucan have a long
history of use in various industries, including food and pharmaceuticals, which provides a strong foundation for their safety profile. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, thorough safety assessments are necessary to ensure their suitability for use in sun care products. Regulatory bodies such as the FDA and
EMA have recognized chitosan and beta- glucan as generally safe ingredients. However, formulators must still comply with specific regulations regarding their use in cosmetic products, including proper labelling and adherence to maximum concentration limits where applicable.6
Conclusion As the cosmetics industry continues its journey toward more sustainable practices, fungal- derived chitosan and beta-glucan represent a significant step forward in natural ingredient innovation. Their ability to provide comparable or
superior functionality to synthetic materials, while supporting environmental preservation goals, positions them as ideal ingredients for next-generation sun care products. This successful integration of natural
biopolymers into high-performance sun care formulations demonstrates that sustainable alternatives can meet both the technical requirements of modern cosmetics and the growing consumer demand for environmentally responsible products. The future of sun care lies in such
innovative, sustainable solutions. As research continues and processing technologies advance, we can expect to see even more creative applications of these versatile natural polymers, potentially revolutionizing not just sun care, but the broader cosmetics industry as a whole.
PC
References: 1. Elsabee MZ, Abdou ES. Chitosan based edible films and coatings: A review. Materials Science and Engineering. 2013; C, 33(4), 1819–1841
2. Aranaz I et al. Cosmetics and cosmeceutical applications of chitin, chitosan and their derivatives. Polymers. 2018; 10(2), 213
3. Muzzarelli RA et al. Current views on fungal chitin/chitosan [...] on the chitin bicentennial. Carbohydrate Polymers. 2012; 87(2), 995–1012
4. Rinaudo M. Chitin and chitosan: Properties and applications. Progress in Polymer Science. 2006; 31(7), 603–632
5. Kumar MNR. (2000). A review of chitin and chitosan applications. Reactive and Functional Polymers. 2000; 46(1), 1–27
6. General and industry-specific knowledge, including sustainability, biodegradability, beta-glucan immune and hydration properties, regulatory references (FDA, EMA), and Maicelium’s website: https://www.
maicelium.com
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