54 ANTI-POLLUTION
250 200 150 100 50 0
EDDS Chelant EDTA GLDA
Figure 1: Copper binding capacity of chelants in 50ppm Ca, 10 ppm Mg hard water determined by chemiluminescence
with the most common way for this to happen being during routine hair washing and bathing. Copper is present in varying levels in tap water predominantly due to copper plumbing, with regular hair washing increasing the contact time of the hair with the copper containing tap water. Over time, this leads to an accumulation
of copper in the hair fibre. When the levels of copper in the water used to wash the hair are high enough, the ingress of copper into the hair fibre will cause the hair to take on a green shade. This phenomenon has earned itself the medical name chlorotrichosis.12 More commonly, hair which is tinted green
is attributed to chlorine in swimming pools. However, chlorine in this case is being unduly vilified: it is in fact the copper sulphate used as an algaecide in swimming pools which penetrates the hair during exposure while swimming which causes the hair to take on a green hue.12 Marsh et al proposed that when amino
acids are degraded by UV radiation, hydrogen peroxide is generated as part of the subsequent reactions.13
Metal ions will then react with this
hydrogen peroxide and cause it to generate highly reactive hydroxyl radicals, which can cause further damage inside the hair fibre.13 Copper in comparison to other metals is
Figure 2: Apple slices left for 24h after treatment with chelant solutions with EDDS showing the least browning and the water control showing the most
TABLE 1: TEST SHAMPOO FORMULATION, H0167 THE COPPER DETOX, CONTAINING NATRLQUEST E30 Phase Ingredients Aqua
INCI A Glycerin
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
B
Citric Acid Solution (50% w/w) Aqua
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate NANSA LSS 38/AV Iselux (Innospec)
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
C
E F
Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Cocoamphoacetate Fragrance
Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol
G Citric Acid Solution (50% w/w) H Sodium Chloride
Natrlquest® E30 EMPIGEN S18
EMPIGEN BS/FA EMPIGEN CDR 60 Mars
3 3
3 3
3 3 4
Vegetable Glycerin Naternal Excel
1 2 SPLR
% w/w 20.00 2.00
0.25 Trace
q.s. to 100%
15.00 2.50
0.50 0.50
7.00 3.00 0.30 0.50 0.50 0.40
q.s. to pH
5.5-6.0 q.s. to
6.000- 10.000 cP
Procedure: Heat phase A to approx. 70°C. Adjust the pH value of phase B to approx. 5.0 - 5.5. Add phase B while homogenizing. Homogenize. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase C below 40 °C. Homogenize again and fill into final packaging.
Suppliers: 1. The Soap Kitchen 2. Syensqo 3. Innospec 4. Azur Fragrances
particularly effective at generating free radicals with hydrogen peroxide. Therefore, the removal of excessive copper from the hair fibre is the most crucial component to prevent damage from UV exposure. Natrlquest® E30, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (EDDS) is a readily biodegradable chelant which is effective at chelating copper ions in hard water (Figure 1). How the copper chelating power of EDDS
can be used to inhibit chemical reactions can be demonstrated using apples, as the browning of apples is initiated by a polyphenol oxidase (PPO) enzyme present in plants which contains two copper ions at its centre.14
The chelation of
these copper ions inactivates the PPO enzyme, which inhibits browning reaction on the fruit’s surface.
This article will use differential scanning
calorimetry, colourimetry, atomic absorption spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy to demonstrate that a shampoo containing Natrlquest E30 removes copper from the hair during routine washing and furthermore shows a decrease in the damage received by the hair from UV exposure.
Test shampoo formulation, H0167 The Copper Detox Table 1, The formulation card for the Natrlquest E30 containing “The Copper Detox” shampoo.
Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) Samples of hair washed 60 times and then exposed to UV were cut into small sections before sealing in a pan for analysis. The samples were then heated to 250°C while measuring the heat flow into the equipment. A change in the amount of heating required to heat the samples indicates a change in the sample, e.g. degradation of the hair’s protein matrix. The temperature required to degrade
PERSONAL CARE October 2025
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Copper binding capacity, mg/g
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