92 SKIN CARE
Peptides in dermocosmetics Polypeptides and proteins are well-know and appreciated actives in dermocosmetics formulation. They are able to interact with skin cells and are highly effective at low dosages due to their bioactive properties.6 Peptides and proteins are classically
produced by chemical synthesis or biotechnology. In recent years, PMF is proving to be an interesting sustainable alternative for the production of biopeptides. This technique has already been used to produce polypeptides such as growth factors and cytokines for cosmetics use.7,8
Soothing PMF-derived polypeptides In recent years, the incidence of inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema, rosacea, and sensitivity has been steadily rising, driven by factors like pollution, stress, and lifestyle changes. This growing trend underscores the urgent need for non-pharmaceutical actives that can safely and effectively manage inflammation while supporting skin health. Recently, an intriguing soothing protein has been successfully produced using two different expression systems from the plants of Nicotiana benthamiana (Australian tobacco) and Oryza sativa (common rice) through the PMF technique, identified with the INCI names of Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein and Hydrolysed Rice Protein, respectively. This protein is addressed to contrast the
continuous inflammation from different origins (e.g. atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and rosacea are the most common and diffused conditions) resulting in skin redness, water loss and eventually pathogens infiltration. These polypeptides help to reduce irritation
of sensitive and inflamed skin, thus reduce water loss. As a consequence, redness disappears helping the barrier regeneration. The skin is restored, the barrier is rebuilt, able to defend itself and maintain proper hydration (Figure 1). Additionally, counteracting constant inflammation, these polypeptides reduce
ICAM-1 test
1.4 1.2 1.0 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0
irritated Not Irritated -73%
Figure 1: Effects of inflammation on human skin. Both external factors (such as stress, blue light, UV radiation, pollution, and smoking) and internal conditions (including dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, and cellular senescence) can activate inflammatory pathways. As a result, the skin becomes visibly red, the epidermis and its barrier are compromised, leading to increased water loss and allowing the penetration of pathogens and allergens. Moreover, chronic inflammation reduces the synthesis of extracellular matrix (ECM) components, while collagen and elastin undergo degradation and crosslinking, further impairing skin structure and function
the process known as inflammaging,9 improving wrinkles appearance.
thus
Biological activity To assess the protein’s effectiveness, researchers focused on the polypeptide obtained from the Nicotiana benthamiana plant. The study aimed at demonstrating the product’s activity in modulating irritation focused on two pro-inflammatory cytokines: i) Tumour Necrosis Factor TNF-α;10 and ii) Interleukin IL-1α11 - both well-known markers associated with skin inflammation (Figure 2). In vitro studies were conducted on both cell cultures and reconstructed 3D tissue models.
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
polypeptide irritated +
IL-1α test on artificial skin model -19%
TNF-α activity modulation on human endothelial cell line TNF-α has a number of tissues functions, but during an inflammatory process it is initially involved in the activation of endothelial cells to allow an increased vessel permeability and the migration of leukocytes from blood to inflammatory microenvironment. This process includes expression of adhesion molecules like Intercellular Adhesion Molecule 1 (ICAM-1) on activated endothelial cell. For this reason, an ICAM-1 test was
executed on human endothelial cells after using TNF-α as activation stimuli, in presence or absence of the plant polypeptide. A reduction of -73% in ICAM-1 stimulation was detected in presence of the product, indicating the protein ability to modulate TNF-α irritating activity.
IL-1α modulation on 3D skin Reconstructed artificial human skin units were pre-treated with sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) to induce IL-1α synthesis and release. Then, product was applied for 24 hours. At the end of the exposure period, the culture medium was collected and a direct ELISA test was used for IL1-α detection. Results indicate that the polypeptide shows
irritated Not
Irritated 0.1 mg/L
0.05 mg/L
Figure 2: Biological activity assessment of the hydrolysed vegetable protein cosmeceutical ingredient. Intercellular Adhesion Molecule 1 (ICAM-1) expression was measured in human endothelial cells, both in the presence and absence of the polypeptide, to assess its anti- inflammatory potential. Interleukin 1α (IL-1α) release was analysed in reconstructed 3D human skin models following irritation induced by SLS, with and without polypeptide treatment, to evaluate its soothing effect
PERSONAL CARE October 2025
a soothing activity towards the epidermis with a reduction of 19% in IL-1α release.
Clinical evaluation To demonstrate the effectiveness of the polypeptide ‘hydrolysed vegetable protein’, tests were carried out on healthy volunteers to assess both its irritation-modulating activity and its ability to counteract ageing associated with inflammaging.
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Relative absorbance
% release
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